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We had an excellent breakfast
at the Orsaria, then hopped on a vaporetta through to San Marco.
The boats were already busy and lots of the city was on the move.
We'd gotten accustomed to being ahead of Italy in the mornings,
but not in Venice.
We arrived to a line-up at
our first stop, the Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducalle), and were
a little frustrated getting in. Things were not
clearly stated as to what to do with our ticket confirmation.
Regardless, we got it sorted out after about 15 min in wrong
lines and had an excellent visit once in.
A "Doge" was the
chief magistrate and leader of Venice, a system established and
lasting for over a thousand years. Doges of Venice were elected
for life by the city-state's aristocracy. Commonly the person
selected was the shrewdest elder in the city. As a sign of importance
and Venice's wealth as a republic, the Doge's Palace was built.
At present a museum, this vast complex which overlooks the lagoon
in Venice served as home to the Doge, government chambers, huge
rooms for entertaining and even a prison. We actually enjoyed
traipsing through the prison area and the maze of cells under
the palace. The famous "Bridge of Sighs" is part of
this complex as well.
Leaving the Doges Palace we
got in line for Basilica San Marco. Nicely the line moved
quickly and when we navigated entry we went to the outdoor walkway,
over looking the square, and Museum of St. Mark's located inside
on the same floor. There was a mass going on below and the ceilings
and walls, which glitter like gold, were well lit. Jane got several
nice pictures of the interior. The museum had inside the actual
set of four bronze horses which had once been situated on the
facade of the church, and we read they were over 2000 yrs old.
The Museo Correr hosts a wealth of interesting
paintings of Venetian life, plus a fine collection of artifacts
(like coins, costumes, the doges' ceremonial robes and hats,
and an incredible pair of 15-inch platform shoes) that gives
an interesting feel for aspects of daily life in the citys
heyday. While there, we actually wandered into the archaeological
museum and viewed part of that as well.
Jane packed a light lunch of
sandwiches for the day that we enjoyed looking out over the lagoon
in Venice. Peaceful, with the water lapping at our toes and Gondolas
slowly paddling by.
We decided to walk to Rialto Bridge and Market. It was fun to wander
through the narrow, merchant filled streets, crossing bridges
and following the crowds. More quickly than I had expected, we
were at the edge of the canal and walked onto the Rialto. Jane
got hooked by the shops and shiny objects (almost like a raven)
and ended up buying some souvenir Murano Glass Ear rings. We
continued on to the open markets, where we picked up several
oranges and sweatshirt for Peter. The fish market had closed,
but it smelled so much like the bait shed in Canso that it was
like being home.
The guide book said you should
take some time to get "lost" in Venice. After Rialto
we sauntered through the streets towards Galleria d'ell Accademia,
the Art Gallery we would visit in the afternoon. We sauntered
through in the general direction of the museum. This was the
first time we stumbled upon what I realized were the raised platforms
Venetians use when spring flooding occurs. They just pull on
the rubber boots and walk the decks.
We passed piazza and church,
patio restaurants and foot bridge, and finally made our way back
the Grand Canal. That afternoon we also walked around Dogana da Mar, making our way around the
spit of the island with a fantastic view of the lagoon. We saw
a huge ferry from Greece arrive, and being thirsty work we treated
ourselves to gelato in a waffle cone for our last steps before
the art gallery.
Galleria dell'Accademia is one of Venice's largest Art Galleries.
It has a rich collection of Venetian paintings from Veneto as
well as from the Bizantine, Gothic and Renaissance artists. Inside
things were very busy and Friday afternoon crowds had arrived.
I was meeting my art fill at this point and my lack of familiarity
with Italian artists started to shine through. I was ready for
a Monet or Van Gogh... something familiar. We did enjoy the visit,
but were starting to find the offerings somewhat repetitive.
We visited a church near Accademia
named Santa Maria delle Salute. It was so cold
in there you could see your breath! It's a beautiful round church,
with no seating, where we happened upon afternoon vespers, and
listened to the church's pipe organ.
Lastly, we took a leisurely
stroll back past the Guggenheim to San Marco where we caught
the vaporetta home. I took a whack of video at this point...
it was fun because the canal was so busy. Also, we went back
to the Co-op (yes the name was co-op & wouldn't O'Handley
be proud) for sustenance. In fact, we had our best homemade evening
lunch of the trip in Venice. Antiche conserve di Sicilia suga
alla norma - wicked good stuff we found to be our "bruschetta"
attempt. We need to find a recipe (80% tomato sauce, 20% eggplant,
olive oil, fresh herbs, zuchini, salt). Lucked out with this
Venice forage find! Big snack, with grapes, wine, oranges, salami,
asiago cheese, bread, bruschetta, and chocolate. A bit much,
but darn good after our day roaming Venice. |