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Tower Bridge

From the Market

Under the Eiffel Tower  
March Break in Europe - 2008

 

March Break in Europe
   Introduction
 Itinerary London & Paris
    Day One
    Day Two
    Day Three
    Day Four
    Day Five
    Day Six
    Day Seven
 Travel Supports
    Weather London
    Weather Paris
    Transport for London
    Transport in Paris
    Currency Converter
 Thoughts on Travels
    Reflections
    Gallery
    Samaritans
    Tips for Friends
    Links
Itinerary - Day 4

Up and at it quickly to be ready for our Eurostar connection to Paris. Our accommodation was a well suited 10 min. trot from the station. When planning I had considered the reality that I may be pushing the envelope, combining these two cities over such a short period of time. However, as the man says, "Go big or stay home". The idea was to try and comfortably see/experience as much as possible over the time frame. I booked the tickets from home and the rest seemed to fall into place.

  • London St-Pancras - Upon arrival, we quickly navigated to the Eurostar ticket gate and registered our tickets, passed through the obligatory customs/security procedure (bag check/x-ray) and scrounged a quick coffee and roll for mug up. The train departed on time and was everything I had researched... comfortable, clean, and quick. The scene was more like an airplane than a train. The trip (2:15min in total) was relaxed, as the train scooched along at a mere 300km/h through the English and French countrysides. I would estimate the time spent below ground at about 20 minutes. Really, this was a no fret method to move between two of the world's most famous cities... no hassle downtown to downtown trip. Worth it!!!
  • Paris - Gare du Nord - I got a bit frazzled upon entry to Paris. I couldn't find the subway number I wanted, the streets didn't show the names I wanted... the terminal was busy. I now realize that this was much to do with the fact I researched but didn't know the Gare du Nord area (we might have been excited too). At the station we did secure two carnets (sets of ten subway/bus/RER tickets) and set out anyway, headed towards our first destination, Sacré-Coeur. The tickets lasted us our entire visit, a mere 22 euros for three days inner city transport. The stroll settled us and within several minutes walk we identified a station, hopped on the subway to Anvers Station and into the Montemarte area. All order re-established.
  • Sacré-Coeur Basilica - Sacré-Coeur, a lone cathedral which overlooks all of Paris, is physically mounted high on a hilltop... a landmark discernible from throughout the city. The charming narrow streets, all leading uphill, were lined with shops and vendors obviously taking advantage of the tourist traffic to the Basilica. Little Miss Jane was feeling the fatigue of a lot of miles under foot, so we made for the "funicular", a little cable tram which would accept subway tickets and carry us and our bags to Sacré-Coeur. At the gates we met the "string-men" (as our research had indicated) and we quickly stepped around their advances. After a short line, up the hill we went. The view at the base of the basilica steps didn't disappoint. The urban haze so often seen in Paris photos, one of those realization moments when you say,"whoops, I'm in Paris... how did that happen". Sacré-Coeur was amazing... and we lucked out. Once inside we sat, only to have vespers (pre-holy week) beginning and a choir of nuns move to the alter and share their music with us. Jane and I thoroughly enjoyed the visit.
  • Place du Tertre - After leaving Sacré-Coeur, we sojourned a little further up the hill through a series of narrow, shop-lined streets to Place du Tertre, a cozy open square filled with brightly colored umbrellas and artists doing portraits and selling their work. The square was lined with restaurants and cafes. An exquisitely Parisian setting. We sauntered back to the funicular, slid down the hill, and made our way back to the Anvers Metro. On the way back down from Place du Tertre was the first moment I saw the Eiffel Tower in the distance.
  • Arc de Triomphe - We tunneled from Montmarte to the heart of Paris getting off the Metro at Charles DeGaulle Etoile and entry to the underground passage of the Arc de Triomphe. Glad I wasn't driving at this point... hell of a circumferential. We explored the plaza from the ground, examining the friezes and the memorial to the unknown soldier located under the arch at ground level. I hadn't expected the monument to be so large. We then purchased tickets and took the spiral staircase up to the deck and upper floor for viewing. Another spectacular view of Paris. It was at this point I was struck by the linear nature of the streets and buildings, as they lined up with the accuracy of a surveyor. We enjoyed the view from every angle and made our way down (via elevator) to the ground.
  • Champs Elysées - The Champs was great stroll, past the high end shops, accommodations and dealerships. The crowded sidewalks were bustling and our "tourist-like" pace must have made us obvious visitors to those around us. It was here we first came upon Israeli flags and a heightened police presence. Jane inquired and the officer related Shimon Peres was visiting Paris. The next few days felt very safe, as the presence of security on street corners and near attractions was very evident. We cut off the Champs and walked past the Grand Palais and Petit Palais to Pont Alexandre III. This extravagant crossing, with its gilded statues and ornate light posts, carried us to the left bank where we would find our accommodations.
  • Accommodations - Hotel de Beaune - This was perhaps the arrangement I had feared the most. Although an incredible location, I did have some questions in regards to our Paris accommodations as it was a smaller, quaint hotel with many "unknowns" which fit our budget. Caution to the wind, I booked and we arrived. We checked-in quickly, anxious to dump bags and get acquainted with the neighbourhood. We made ourselves comfortable and made peace with the surroundings, especially enjoying the view from the opened bay windows to the street five stories below. We'd return again in a heartbeat.
  • St. Germaine des Pres - We immediately set out to purchase some supplies. We were in need of wine glasses (et vin... to fill them), bread, cheese, meats, grapes so we set out for Marché rue de Buci in the St. Germaine area. The suppertime walk harvested a bounty for a late evening feast, to be enjoyed upon our return from the Eiffel Tower. Walking past the shops through the narrow streets of St. Germaine and listening to the conversations was simply a pleasure. After depleting much of our wine stock back at the hotel, we departed to catch a bus (a 2 minute walk) to the Parc du Champs de Mars which surrounds the Eiffel Tower. Jane struck up a conversation with a knowledgeable lady on the bus which confirmed our route and let us know where to get off for best access to the tower. She was very friendly and wished us well on our vacation (appreciating Jane's French as we did her English).
  • Eiffel Tower - We lined-up to what was expected to be about a 40 minute wait and began speaking with others in the queue. I believe the wine consumed earlier helped the wait. People from all over the world surrounded us. Lots of smoking going on as well, which we've become very unaccustomed to. We took some interesting shots of the tower from underneath and the crowd moved fairly quickly towards the ticket window. We bought tickets to the top and boarded the elevator which quickly climbed the first and second decks. We disembarked and immediately got in line to go to the top deck. With a fair bit of wind we arrived at the top and surveyed a well lit Paris (it was now dark). Another one of those moments when you realize you're actually there I guess. We circled the deck and took advantage of the view, avoiding the windy side which faced away from city centre. Although millions do it every year, somehow you feel special being there and I wouldn't trade the experience. We did have a hard time getting good shots with the digital, as the movements and darkness played havoc with the clarity.
  • Trocadero - After the elevator ride down we crossed Pont de Lena to the Palais de Chaillot and the Trocadero area. I suspect it was here that Hitler had pictures taken of himself in front of the tower in 1940. The view of the tower from here is unrivaled. We collected ourselves in the plaza and after several pictures headed for the Trocadero Metro station to make connections back to the Palais Royal station and a walk through the courtyard of the Louvre to our Hotel Room on the Left Bank. That evening we went for another stroll along St Germaine Boulevard and circled back for a much deserved rest, looking forward to the Louvre in the morning.