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Up and at it quickly to be
ready for our Eurostar connection to Paris. Our accommodation
was a well suited 10 min. trot from the station. When planning
I had considered the reality that I may be pushing the envelope,
combining these two cities over such a short period of time.
However, as the man says, "Go big or stay home". The
idea was to try and comfortably see/experience as much as possible
over the time frame. I booked the tickets from home and the rest
seemed to fall into place.
- London St-Pancras - Upon arrival, we quickly navigated to the
Eurostar ticket gate and registered our tickets, passed through
the obligatory customs/security procedure (bag check/x-ray) and
scrounged a quick coffee and roll for mug up. The train departed
on time and was everything I had researched... comfortable, clean,
and quick. The scene was more like an airplane than a train.
The trip (2:15min in total) was relaxed, as the train scooched
along at a mere 300km/h through the English and French countrysides.
I would estimate the time spent below ground at about 20 minutes.
Really, this was a no fret method to move between two of the
world's most famous cities... no hassle downtown to downtown
trip. Worth it!!!
- Paris - Gare du Nord - I got a bit frazzled upon entry
to Paris. I couldn't find the subway number I wanted, the streets
didn't show the names I wanted... the terminal was busy. I now
realize that this was much to do with the fact I researched but
didn't know the Gare du Nord area (we might have been excited
too). At the station we did secure two carnets (sets of ten subway/bus/RER
tickets) and set out anyway, headed towards our first destination,
Sacré-Coeur. The tickets lasted us our entire visit, a
mere 22 euros for three days inner city transport. The stroll
settled us and within several minutes walk we identified a station,
hopped on the subway to Anvers Station and into the Montemarte
area. All order re-established.
- Sacré-Coeur Basilica - Sacré-Coeur, a lone cathedral
which overlooks all of Paris, is physically mounted high on a
hilltop... a landmark discernible from throughout the city. The
charming narrow streets, all leading uphill, were lined with
shops and vendors obviously taking advantage of the tourist traffic
to the Basilica. Little Miss Jane was feeling the fatigue of
a lot of miles under foot, so we made for the "funicular",
a little cable tram which would accept subway tickets and carry
us and our bags to Sacré-Coeur. At the gates we met the
"string-men" (as our research had indicated) and we
quickly stepped around their advances. After a short line, up
the hill we went. The view at the base of the basilica steps
didn't disappoint. The urban haze so often seen in Paris photos,
one of those realization moments when you say,"whoops, I'm
in Paris... how did that happen". Sacré-Coeur was
amazing... and we lucked out. Once inside we sat, only to have
vespers (pre-holy week) beginning and a choir of nuns move to
the alter and share their music with us. Jane and I thoroughly
enjoyed the visit.
- Place du Tertre - After leaving Sacré-Coeur, we sojourned
a little further up the hill through a series of narrow, shop-lined
streets to Place du Tertre, a cozy open square filled with brightly
colored umbrellas and artists doing portraits and selling their
work. The square was lined with restaurants and cafes. An exquisitely
Parisian setting. We sauntered back to the funicular, slid down
the hill, and made our way back to the Anvers Metro. On the way
back down from Place du Tertre was the first moment I saw the
Eiffel Tower in the distance.
- Arc de Triomphe - We tunneled from Montmarte to the heart of
Paris getting off the Metro at Charles DeGaulle Etoile and entry
to the underground passage of the Arc de Triomphe. Glad I wasn't
driving at this point... hell of a circumferential. We explored
the plaza from the ground, examining the friezes and the memorial
to the unknown soldier located under the arch at ground level.
I hadn't expected the monument to be so large. We then purchased
tickets and took the spiral staircase up to the deck and upper
floor for viewing. Another spectacular view of Paris. It was
at this point I was struck by the linear nature of the streets
and buildings, as they lined up with the accuracy of a surveyor.
We enjoyed the view from every angle and made our way down (via
elevator) to the ground.
- Champs Elysées - The Champs was great stroll, past
the high end shops, accommodations and dealerships. The crowded
sidewalks were bustling and our "tourist-like" pace
must have made us obvious visitors to those around us. It was
here we first came upon Israeli flags and a heightened police
presence. Jane inquired and the officer related Shimon Peres
was visiting Paris. The next few days felt very safe, as the
presence of security on street corners and near attractions was
very evident. We cut off the Champs and walked past the Grand
Palais and Petit
Palais to Pont Alexandre III. This extravagant crossing,
with its gilded statues and ornate light posts, carried us to
the left bank where we would find our accommodations.
- Accommodations - Hotel de Beaune - This was perhaps the arrangement
I had feared the most. Although an incredible location, I did
have some questions in regards to our Paris accommodations as
it was a smaller, quaint hotel with many "unknowns"
which fit our budget. Caution to the wind, I booked and we arrived.
We checked-in quickly, anxious to dump bags and get acquainted
with the neighbourhood. We made ourselves comfortable and made
peace with the surroundings, especially enjoying the view from
the opened bay windows to the street five stories below. We'd
return again in a heartbeat.
- St. Germaine des Pres - We immediately set out to purchase
some supplies. We were in need of wine glasses (et vin... to
fill them), bread, cheese, meats, grapes so we set out for Marché
rue de Buci in the St. Germaine area. The suppertime walk harvested
a bounty for a late evening feast, to be enjoyed upon our return
from the Eiffel Tower. Walking past the shops through the narrow
streets of St. Germaine and listening to the conversations was
simply a pleasure. After depleting much of our wine stock back
at the hotel, we departed to catch a bus (a 2 minute walk) to
the Parc du Champs de Mars which surrounds the Eiffel Tower.
Jane struck up a conversation with a knowledgeable lady on the
bus which confirmed our route and let us know where to get off
for best access to the tower. She was very friendly and wished
us well on our vacation (appreciating Jane's French as we did
her English).
- Eiffel Tower
- We lined-up to what was expected to be about a 40 minute wait
and began speaking with others in the queue. I believe the wine
consumed earlier helped the wait. People from all over the world
surrounded us. Lots of smoking going on as well, which we've
become very unaccustomed to. We took some interesting shots of
the tower from underneath and the crowd moved fairly quickly
towards the ticket window. We bought tickets to the top and boarded
the elevator which quickly climbed the first and second decks.
We disembarked and immediately got in line to go to the top deck.
With a fair bit of wind we arrived at the top and surveyed a
well lit Paris (it was now dark). Another one of those moments
when you realize you're actually there I guess. We circled the
deck and took advantage of the view, avoiding the windy side
which faced away from city centre. Although millions do it every
year, somehow you feel special being there and I wouldn't trade
the experience. We did have a hard time getting good shots with
the digital, as the movements and darkness played havoc with
the clarity.
- Trocadero - After the elevator ride down we crossed Pont
de Lena to the Palais de Chaillot and the Trocadero area. I suspect
it was here that Hitler had pictures taken of himself in front
of the tower in 1940. The view of the tower from here is unrivaled.
We collected ourselves in the plaza and after several pictures
headed for the Trocadero Metro station to make connections back
to the Palais Royal station and a walk through the courtyard
of the Louvre to our Hotel Room on the Left Bank. That evening
we went for another stroll along St Germaine Boulevard and circled
back for a much deserved rest, looking forward to the Louvre
in the morning.
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