|
Another overcast and breezy
morning, but still comfortable windbreaker weather. The sun would
pass in and out from behind the clouds throughout the day, making
for very acceptable conditions to complete the circular trip
planned to commence at the Louvre. The day would hold the most
famous museum in the world, incredible examples of ancient and
modern architecture, the beloved Notre Dame Cathedral and even
some much needed moments of humour.
- Jardin des Tuileries - After a good night's rest we woke
and tackled Jardin des Tuileries before the Louvre opened. We
crossed the river at Pont du Carrousel and made our way through
the park. We passed the many pieces of sculpture (Rodin and Maillol)
and worked towards the large fountain at the garden's centre.
Although there was very little foliage (mid-March) we enjoyed
the pathways and walked all the way to Place de la Concorde,
taking pictures of the Obelisk at the centre. We returned through
the park and walked through the Carrousel Arc de Triomphe outside
the Louvre. We took advantage of the advance tickets and went
to the Richelieu entrance.
- Louvre
- The Louvre is huge, both physically and artistically. A mammoth
collection warehoused in a huge complex. It's broken into three
sections, the Richelieu, Sully, and Denon wings. Access to these
wings is coordinated underneath the glass pyramid, which is central
to all areas. We headed for the Denon wing, trying to beat crowds
to the Mona Lisa. It was a simple search, as we found her in
a room alone, with only the earliest patrons there. We took a
few pictures but our camera had difficulty with the shaded glass
which protects the artwork. We also saw "Winged Victory
of Samothrace" in the staircase nearby. Other works we enjoyed
were Venus de Milo and the Napoleon apartment areas open to the
public. Really, there was just too much to mention. We spent
three hours touring and only scratched a fraction of the work
inside. We were somewhat disappointed that "Hammurabi's
Code" had been removed for another exhibit, but otherwise
overwhelmed with the visit. A theme developed throughout our
visits to museums in the UK and France. The volume and value
of artifacts that had been collected from other countries during
the great age of imperialism was immense, and often seemed more
like "loot" than actual pieces of history. Sometimes
it felt like stolen property, other times it felt like "Thank
God someone saved it". I'll leave you to decide.
- Pompidou Centre - Once again, as in the Tate Modern, we found
ourselves amid a modern art gallery which stretched the boundaries
of traditional assumptions of art. We enjoyed Pompidou, not only
for the "Big Red Rhino", but for it's energy and impulsiveness.
We took a picture in one of my favorite rooms, with a reflective
sphere in the centre and geometric line shooting in all directions.
The building itself is a marvel... the unfinished look outside
suggesting (as one of my students noted) it's still under construction.
We enjoyed the space, the art and our time there.
- The Pantheon
- Outside the Pompidou Centre, we hopped on a bus and taxied
across Ile de la Cite to the Pantheon. This was a bit of a surprise
for Jane... as she hadn't been there previously. The Pantheon
is cut directly from ancient Greek architecture. Its huge columns
and stately friezes overlook the Luxembourg gardens and the Sorbonne
district. Once inside, we purchased tickets and toured the building
at our leisure. Inside, the building is just as impressive. After
touring the main floor we went below into the crypt, which is
the resting place for many famous Parisians including Voltaire,
Rousseau, Victor Hugo and Pierre and Marie Currie. It was very
quiet and lacked the crowds experienced at the Louvre and Pompidou.
I very much enjoyed the visit and seeing this monstrous building
in person.
- Jardin du Luxembourg - One of Paris' most popular parks...
we passed through enjoying the area and wandered past passive
and active areas of the gardens (i.e. Tennis courts). The palace
and fountain must be magnificent at full bloom. While in this
area of the city we stumbled upon Église
Saint-Sulpice, the church which recently gained increased
notoriety with its appearance in the da Vinci Code movie. The
church, which was rather darker than most we had visited, was
undergoing substantial renovations at the facade but we entered
easily and walked about freely.The line which runs from one side
of the church to the obelisk at the other could be easily seen
and we sat for a few minutes to view the premises. We walked
from the church back to St Michel, stopping at a Brioche Doree
for coffee and sandwich while overlooking the foot traffic. As
far as I can recall, this was the first reasonably priced coffee
to date in Paris. We then made our way to Ile de la Cite.
- Ile de la Cité - First coming upon Notre Dame, we
decided not to enter but to take some time and wander about the
island. We traipsed through the narrow streets and made our way
past St. Chapelle and the Conciergerie to Pont Neuf. We circled
back and decided we'd enter Notre Dame early and take advantage
of the seats inside.
- Notre
Dame - Cathedral -
From the outside, the cathedral is very much like the pictures
I had seen. However, under closer examination a fair bit of deterioration
is taking place in the external stone work and the gargoyles
and other fixtures are eroding, some even dropping in the outer
fenced in area. Inside we sat and were treated to vespers prior
to the 6:15 mass, and we enjoyed the choral service. Great turn
of fate, as we hit choirs at St Paul's, Sacre-Couer and Notre
Dame during our vacation. For me, music makes the service and
we were indebted to our church visits for this pleasure. Further,
it was a chance to sit, reflect and endure a real "calm"
in what was a very filled 7 day tour.
- Louvre
- Our intention was to return to the Louvre for an evening visit
so we walked back and entered the pyramid without waiting. Once
inside we milled about and saw that several of the desired areas
were closed. After a short visit we left returning to Pont Neuf
to take a river cruise up and down the Seine.
- Les Vedettes du Pont Neuf - Once again, we were early. But no fear...
Jane found a place where we could get a beer. We ordered them
up and sat, by a sleepy old dog, in the Captains room waiting
for the next cruise boat to arrive. Yikes... it only cost us
16 euros. Almost as much as the boat trip. Well not to worry...
it was thirsty work. Once the "bateaux" returned we
boarded to a certain degree of excitement. While enjoying our
beer, what must have been a March Break group of students boarded
and were wound up. They were noisy, but they weren't ours so
we paid little attention to their presence. The cruise was a
great way to see the city and we thoroughly enjoyed it, along
with another older couple from the states sitting in front of
us. We even got "mooned" by a pair of enthusiastic
young walkers along the lower walkway which overlooks the river.
The cruise left Pont Neuf, traveled as far as the Eiffel Tower,
then back around Ile de la Cite and up the other side to Pont
Neuf. For icing on the cake, one of the kids passed out and we
were boarded by a police riverboat and later ambulance.
- Accommodations - Hotel de Beaune - We stopped for a crepe (with nutella
no less) and an item resembling a donair, then headed back for
more wine and cheese in our great little room in the 7th arrondissement.
The wine, cheaper than water, was definitely the drink of choice
during our Paris stay.
|