aaa

aaa

Tower Bridge

From the Market

Under the Eiffel Tower  
March Break in Europe - 2008

 

March Break in Europe
   Introduction
 Itinerary London & Paris
    Day One
    Day Two
    Day Three
    Day Four
    Day Five
    Day Six
    Day Seven
 Travel Supports
    Weather London
    Weather Paris
    Transport for London
    Transport in Paris
    Currency Converter
 Thoughts on Travels
    Reflections
    Gallery
    Samaritans
    Tips for Friends
    Links
Itinerary - Day 5

Another overcast and breezy morning, but still comfortable windbreaker weather. The sun would pass in and out from behind the clouds throughout the day, making for very acceptable conditions to complete the circular trip planned to commence at the Louvre. The day would hold the most famous museum in the world, incredible examples of ancient and modern architecture, the beloved Notre Dame Cathedral and even some much needed moments of humour.

  • Jardin des Tuileries - After a good night's rest we woke and tackled Jardin des Tuileries before the Louvre opened. We crossed the river at Pont du Carrousel and made our way through the park. We passed the many pieces of sculpture (Rodin and Maillol) and worked towards the large fountain at the garden's centre. Although there was very little foliage (mid-March) we enjoyed the pathways and walked all the way to Place de la Concorde, taking pictures of the Obelisk at the centre. We returned through the park and walked through the Carrousel Arc de Triomphe outside the Louvre. We took advantage of the advance tickets and went to the Richelieu entrance.
  • Louvre - The Louvre is huge, both physically and artistically. A mammoth collection warehoused in a huge complex. It's broken into three sections, the Richelieu, Sully, and Denon wings. Access to these wings is coordinated underneath the glass pyramid, which is central to all areas. We headed for the Denon wing, trying to beat crowds to the Mona Lisa. It was a simple search, as we found her in a room alone, with only the earliest patrons there. We took a few pictures but our camera had difficulty with the shaded glass which protects the artwork. We also saw "Winged Victory of Samothrace" in the staircase nearby. Other works we enjoyed were Venus de Milo and the Napoleon apartment areas open to the public. Really, there was just too much to mention. We spent three hours touring and only scratched a fraction of the work inside. We were somewhat disappointed that "Hammurabi's Code" had been removed for another exhibit, but otherwise overwhelmed with the visit. A theme developed throughout our visits to museums in the UK and France. The volume and value of artifacts that had been collected from other countries during the great age of imperialism was immense, and often seemed more like "loot" than actual pieces of history. Sometimes it felt like stolen property, other times it felt like "Thank God someone saved it". I'll leave you to decide.
  • Pompidou Centre - Once again, as in the Tate Modern, we found ourselves amid a modern art gallery which stretched the boundaries of traditional assumptions of art. We enjoyed Pompidou, not only for the "Big Red Rhino", but for it's energy and impulsiveness. We took a picture in one of my favorite rooms, with a reflective sphere in the centre and geometric line shooting in all directions. The building itself is a marvel... the unfinished look outside suggesting (as one of my students noted) it's still under construction. We enjoyed the space, the art and our time there.
  • The Pantheon - Outside the Pompidou Centre, we hopped on a bus and taxied across Ile de la Cite to the Pantheon. This was a bit of a surprise for Jane... as she hadn't been there previously. The Pantheon is cut directly from ancient Greek architecture. Its huge columns and stately friezes overlook the Luxembourg gardens and the Sorbonne district. Once inside, we purchased tickets and toured the building at our leisure. Inside, the building is just as impressive. After touring the main floor we went below into the crypt, which is the resting place for many famous Parisians including Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo and Pierre and Marie Currie. It was very quiet and lacked the crowds experienced at the Louvre and Pompidou. I very much enjoyed the visit and seeing this monstrous building in person.
  • Jardin du Luxembourg - One of Paris' most popular parks... we passed through enjoying the area and wandered past passive and active areas of the gardens (i.e. Tennis courts). The palace and fountain must be magnificent at full bloom. While in this area of the city we stumbled upon Église Saint-Sulpice, the church which recently gained increased notoriety with its appearance in the da Vinci Code movie. The church, which was rather darker than most we had visited, was undergoing substantial renovations at the facade but we entered easily and walked about freely.The line which runs from one side of the church to the obelisk at the other could be easily seen and we sat for a few minutes to view the premises. We walked from the church back to St Michel, stopping at a Brioche Doree for coffee and sandwich while overlooking the foot traffic. As far as I can recall, this was the first reasonably priced coffee to date in Paris. We then made our way to Ile de la Cite.
  • Ile de la Cité - First coming upon Notre Dame, we decided not to enter but to take some time and wander about the island. We traipsed through the narrow streets and made our way past St. Chapelle and the Conciergerie to Pont Neuf. We circled back and decided we'd enter Notre Dame early and take advantage of the seats inside.
  • Notre Dame - Cathedral - From the outside, the cathedral is very much like the pictures I had seen. However, under closer examination a fair bit of deterioration is taking place in the external stone work and the gargoyles and other fixtures are eroding, some even dropping in the outer fenced in area. Inside we sat and were treated to vespers prior to the 6:15 mass, and we enjoyed the choral service. Great turn of fate, as we hit choirs at St Paul's, Sacre-Couer and Notre Dame during our vacation. For me, music makes the service and we were indebted to our church visits for this pleasure. Further, it was a chance to sit, reflect and endure a real "calm" in what was a very filled 7 day tour.
  • Louvre - Our intention was to return to the Louvre for an evening visit so we walked back and entered the pyramid without waiting. Once inside we milled about and saw that several of the desired areas were closed. After a short visit we left returning to Pont Neuf to take a river cruise up and down the Seine.
  • Les Vedettes du Pont Neuf - Once again, we were early. But no fear... Jane found a place where we could get a beer. We ordered them up and sat, by a sleepy old dog, in the Captains room waiting for the next cruise boat to arrive. Yikes... it only cost us 16 euros. Almost as much as the boat trip. Well not to worry... it was thirsty work. Once the "bateaux" returned we boarded to a certain degree of excitement. While enjoying our beer, what must have been a March Break group of students boarded and were wound up. They were noisy, but they weren't ours so we paid little attention to their presence. The cruise was a great way to see the city and we thoroughly enjoyed it, along with another older couple from the states sitting in front of us. We even got "mooned" by a pair of enthusiastic young walkers along the lower walkway which overlooks the river. The cruise left Pont Neuf, traveled as far as the Eiffel Tower, then back around Ile de la Cite and up the other side to Pont Neuf. For icing on the cake, one of the kids passed out and we were boarded by a police riverboat and later ambulance.
  • Accommodations - Hotel de Beaune - We stopped for a crepe (with nutella no less) and an item resembling a donair, then headed back for more wine and cheese in our great little room in the 7th arrondissement. The wine, cheaper than water, was definitely the drink of choice during our Paris stay.