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Up and at it early... still
on Nova Scotia time. First order of business was to get the Orange
Line across the city to the neighborhood of St Joseph's Oratory. The subway was quiet
and we were walking towards the church in no time. We stopped
at a boulangerie and had a very nice breakfast around the corner
from the oratory.
Saturday morning saw a fresh
blanket of white snow over the entire city. Somehow that fit
in very nicely with Montreal. The huge dome of St Joseph's Oratory
seemed to anchor the movement of the flurries that swept across
the sky. There is a piece of work involved in ascending the many
steps to the church notched into the hillside... But the return
is the warmth of the cathedral (which in our case was basically
empty) and the idea of miracles and faith. St Joseph's founder,
Father Andre, was recently canonized by the Catholic Church for
work as a healer. Millions make the pilgrimage each year to the
Oratory.
Inside we freshened up, then
headed for the main Basilica. Alone in the huge room, Janie and
I were free to wander and examine the space at our leisure. Space
is the key word, as the interior is huge but quite different
from the European experience. Indeed, the architecture is strong
and bold, not taken up with the splendor and ornateness that
so many of the earlier churches exhaust. I liked it... It was
modest and unobstructed. Almost a "get to business"
feel.
While there we also visited
Father Andre's tomb, viewed a snowy Montreal from the terrace,
passed the crutches of healed visitors and sat in the crypt church
for a few minutes prior to a televised mass. Well worth the few
minutes to think about this city's obvious attachment to faith
and sample some of that history for ourselves.
After a quick commute back
downtown, we made our way through the Concordia area to the Musee
Beaux Arts. Of note, Janie thought it more than coincidence
as she passed a statue of Norman Bethune in the neighborhood,
whom she had been covering in her Red China unit with her History
IB kids. We were a tad early for the 10:00am opening, but enjoyed
a Tim's and some people watching prior to entry. Gallery visits
have become the norm on our trips and we see something new at
each city we experience. I hadn't done a lot of research on the
Montreal gallery however, so I really didn't know what to expect.
By all counts, this space didn't disappoint!
Firstly, I really liked the
"mix" of the collection. We moved from the works of
masters such as Monet, Picasso and Renoir, to an exhibit that
delved into the life of Napoleon. From a collection of Dutch
works to Paul Gagnon's fashion, to the contrast of contemporary
musings with European iconic art similar to works we found through
Florence and Venice... an eclectic collection. Secondly, we couldn't
help but notice the real care and pride taken in the design,
presentation and upkeep of the gallery. It was really second
to none we've seen!!! Simply gorgeous inside.
We'd walked up enough courage
to actually stop for some grub, and settled on some classic smoked
meat fare at Dunn's on Metcalfe. Enjoyed the rough and
ready atmosphere (I think a couple of customers were unnecessarily
"bitching" at a waitress) as we had a perfect view
of the Vanier game and Laval trouncing Calgary. It proved a good
break.
Just steps from the Dunn's
we sauntered into our next stop, Cathedral Reine du Monde, which
created the view from our Queen Elizabeth window. The design
of the church is actually a scaled copy of St. Peters Basilica
in Rome. As we entered, we sat and caught the last words of the
preparation of gifts and communion. The church's dome is beautiful,
and it was at once reminiscent of my mistake in Vatican City
when I decided to tour the dome and roof of St Peters. The mass
was very relaxed, with a friendly nature as the priests mingled
with parishioners / visitors after the celebration for words,
handshakes, pictures and the like.
Then it was out the side door,
a quick traipse to the subway, and a nice stroll through old
Montreal to Pointe-a-Calliere,
the Montreal Museum of Archaeology and History. The Museum, situated
on the waterfront, is built atop important early archaeological
finds from earliest settlements to the present. The tour began
with a "full on" audio visual tour of Montreal's history
in 18 minutes! It's very well done and accessible to all ages.
Next we toured the digs and excavated areas beneath the building.
One could spend a fair bit of time moving from one exhibit piece
to another. We sampled, and spoke with helpful guides that added
to the tour. We actually went under (unknowingly, all a bit confusing)
the street outside and arose in another building which is part
of the exhibit space. Solid attraction and first time Montreal
visitors should make sure that they see the intro A/V display.
Next stop, Hurley's Irish Pub for dinner with Keegan
and Danielle. The pub found on Rue Crescent is a quick 8-10 minute
walk from our accommodations. It's also about 5 minutes from
the Bell Centre, and our first ever Montreal Canadiens game. The plan was to
have some supper and a few refreshments prior to the game. Hurley's
is the classic Irish pub, and lots of ale, a session in the back
room, and a selection of hearty menu choices were part of our
stay. After the sociables we headed for the game!
The Bell Centre is one hell
of a spot to watch a hockey game... Habs aside, they know the
sport and how best to experience it!!! The building was crazy
busy inside and out... And young and old, French and English,
white and red throughout roared on time as the home team rolled
to a 3-1 victory. Too cool, we were third level but felt like
we were on top of the game... Doesn't seem to be a bad seat in
the house. We hooked up with Keegan and Danielle a couple of
times during the game and afterwards we rallied at the Peel Pub for a few pitchers. Great night
out!!! All hands were asleep before heads hit pillows... |