aChateau Frontenac

TSchwartz's Delicatessen Smoked Meat at Schwartz's St. Joseph's OratorySt. Joseph's Oratory - Morning Snowfall Les HabitantsBell Centre - Montreal vs Buffalo
Montreal - Fall 2010

 
Weekender to Montreal
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Itinerary - NYC
    Day One
    Day Two
    Day Three
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Montreal 2010 - Day Two

Up and at it early... still on Nova Scotia time. First order of business was to get the Orange Line across the city to the neighborhood of St Joseph's Oratory. The subway was quiet and we were walking towards the church in no time. We stopped at a boulangerie and had a very nice breakfast around the corner from the oratory.

Saturday morning saw a fresh blanket of white snow over the entire city. Somehow that fit in very nicely with Montreal. The huge dome of St Joseph's Oratory seemed to anchor the movement of the flurries that swept across the sky. There is a piece of work involved in ascending the many steps to the church notched into the hillside... But the return is the warmth of the cathedral (which in our case was basically empty) and the idea of miracles and faith. St Joseph's founder, Father Andre, was recently canonized by the Catholic Church for work as a healer. Millions make the pilgrimage each year to the Oratory.

Inside we freshened up, then headed for the main Basilica. Alone in the huge room, Janie and I were free to wander and examine the space at our leisure. Space is the key word, as the interior is huge but quite different from the European experience. Indeed, the architecture is strong and bold, not taken up with the splendor and ornateness that so many of the earlier churches exhaust. I liked it... It was modest and unobstructed. Almost a "get to business" feel.

While there we also visited Father Andre's tomb, viewed a snowy Montreal from the terrace, passed the crutches of healed visitors and sat in the crypt church for a few minutes prior to a televised mass. Well worth the few minutes to think about this city's obvious attachment to faith and sample some of that history for ourselves.

After a quick commute back downtown, we made our way through the Concordia area to the Musee Beaux Arts. Of note, Janie thought it more than coincidence as she passed a statue of Norman Bethune in the neighborhood, whom she had been covering in her Red China unit with her History IB kids. We were a tad early for the 10:00am opening, but enjoyed a Tim's and some people watching prior to entry. Gallery visits have become the norm on our trips and we see something new at each city we experience. I hadn't done a lot of research on the Montreal gallery however, so I really didn't know what to expect. By all counts, this space didn't disappoint!

Firstly, I really liked the "mix" of the collection. We moved from the works of masters such as Monet, Picasso and Renoir, to an exhibit that delved into the life of Napoleon. From a collection of Dutch works to Paul Gagnon's fashion, to the contrast of contemporary musings with European iconic art similar to works we found through Florence and Venice... an eclectic collection. Secondly, we couldn't help but notice the real care and pride taken in the design, presentation and upkeep of the gallery. It was really second to none we've seen!!! Simply gorgeous inside.

We'd walked up enough courage to actually stop for some grub, and settled on some classic smoked meat fare at Dunn's on Metcalfe. Enjoyed the rough and ready atmosphere (I think a couple of customers were unnecessarily "bitching" at a waitress) as we had a perfect view of the Vanier game and Laval trouncing Calgary. It proved a good break.

Just steps from the Dunn's we sauntered into our next stop, Cathedral Reine du Monde, which created the view from our Queen Elizabeth window. The design of the church is actually a scaled copy of St. Peters Basilica in Rome. As we entered, we sat and caught the last words of the preparation of gifts and communion. The church's dome is beautiful, and it was at once reminiscent of my mistake in Vatican City when I decided to tour the dome and roof of St Peters. The mass was very relaxed, with a friendly nature as the priests mingled with parishioners / visitors after the celebration for words, handshakes, pictures and the like.

Then it was out the side door, a quick traipse to the subway, and a nice stroll through old Montreal to Pointe-a-Calliere, the Montreal Museum of Archaeology and History. The Museum, situated on the waterfront, is built atop important early archaeological finds from earliest settlements to the present. The tour began with a "full on" audio visual tour of Montreal's history in 18 minutes! It's very well done and accessible to all ages. Next we toured the digs and excavated areas beneath the building. One could spend a fair bit of time moving from one exhibit piece to another. We sampled, and spoke with helpful guides that added to the tour. We actually went under (unknowingly, all a bit confusing) the street outside and arose in another building which is part of the exhibit space. Solid attraction and first time Montreal visitors should make sure that they see the intro A/V display.

Next stop, Hurley's Irish Pub for dinner with Keegan and Danielle. The pub found on Rue Crescent is a quick 8-10 minute walk from our accommodations. It's also about 5 minutes from the Bell Centre, and our first ever Montreal Canadiens game. The plan was to have some supper and a few refreshments prior to the game. Hurley's is the classic Irish pub, and lots of ale, a session in the back room, and a selection of hearty menu choices were part of our stay. After the sociables we headed for the game!

The Bell Centre is one hell of a spot to watch a hockey game... Habs aside, they know the sport and how best to experience it!!! The building was crazy busy inside and out... And young and old, French and English, white and red throughout roared on time as the home team rolled to a 3-1 victory. Too cool, we were third level but felt like we were on top of the game... Doesn't seem to be a bad seat in the house. We hooked up with Keegan and Danielle a couple of times during the game and afterwards we rallied at the Peel Pub for a few pitchers. Great night out!!! All hands were asleep before heads hit pillows...