Day 15 - Grand Canyon NP, AZ

I was up early and went on "drive-a-bout" before everyone was awake.  I wanted to nail down some locations.  Firstly, I found the visitor information centre which we bypassed on the way into the park.  Then I found Mather Point, located nearby. I was out and took some pictures with Janie's camera. This was my first view of the canyon.  It really must've "snuck" up on first visitors as it is almost as the earth just falls a mile.  I spent about 15 minutes (there were only a few others) and watched the colors.  I saw a deer at Mather's when leaving as well.

Next order of business was coffee.  Found that at 6:00am sharp in the Canyon Cafe.  After bringing a coffee home for Janie we all returned to Mather Point where we took some pictures and all got a look at the canyon from this vantage point prior to the throngs of tourists that arrive in by bus to see this more popular destination.  Good visit and Janie and the kids went out to the viewing levels to get a good look down into the canyon.  Too much fun... There is definitely a feeling of insignificance when one looks back and forth across the canyon... Almost like a tiny dot in such an open expanse.

Then to breakfast.  Big mug up (priced reasonably for the park) with everyone finding a little something.  We caught the Visitor Centre opening just after 8:00 am and Monica got a Grand Canyon stamp for her book.  In the centre we watched "Journey to the Edge", a video which gave us a very good overview of the park, wildlife, history and geologic context.  There were also exhibits on several wildlife species.

We then settled back into our campsite to gather things, pack up and move to another site in the campground.  Mather was totally filled for the weekend and because I made two reservations online, on different dates, the original site was no longer available the second night.  I had to book in another spot.  Worked out okay though.  At about 11:00 am we dropped off our card and picked up a new one for Friday night.  Then took about 10 minutes to get everything popped back up.  All was good.

After that, we went exploring. After a couple of circles we walked a portion of the Rim Trail, a paved path which skirts the edge of the canyon along Canyon Village, all the way out to Hermit Trailhead. The views are amazing. Janie and Peter actually chose to walk down a portion of the Bright Angel Trail, the oldest and most popular route for making the trip to the canyon floor.

After the thrill of the canyon we returned to the campground for lunch. Sandwiches for everyone. Peter and I actually curled into the tent for a brief nap!  Monica and Janie invented a frisbee game that Peter later joined in. It rained for a short portion of the pm but we stayed dry in the tent. Our new tent kept us nice and dry and I'm sure the summer rain (in what had been a very dry summer) was welcome.

Our plan for supper was to have a cook-out so all hands went to the General Store to source our supper preference. They had everything there and the store was well stocked. Wieners, buns, wine and ice were the bulk of the purchase. Even had a kit for building "smores" which is always a hit.

So... ready for supper. One more spot we wished to hit before settling into the campfire. As discussed with Diane in Kingman, our Stanfest visitor, we sought out the Yavapai Geology Centre. This building has a glass faced/enclosed observation area that overlooks the canyon and provides binoculars / telescope for viewing into the canyon. There were also some smaller displays that describe the geologic history of the Grand Canyon. Notably, this place is smaller and somewhat removed from the flow of the park... in essence it wasn't so busy!!!

The evening saw us getting our fire up and running (the rain held off) and roasting wieners/sausages for supper. As the sites filled around us, we had fun with several games of cards as well as discussions with neighbors. We accommodated several requests, as folks came by looking for odds and ends they'd forgot (ie, hammer, matches, etc). It was off to bed not long after dark. Of note, I woke up at about 5:00 am to the shrill howl of what were assuredly canyon coyotes off in the distance. We really enjoyed both of our nights camping at the Grand Canyon... it was a trip highlight.

Day 16 - Grand Canyon NP, AZ to Albuquerque, NM

We packed up our super-duper collapsible tent and had a seamless morning departure from Grand Canyon. On our way out of the park we saw deer as well as Elk along the roadside. The elk were impressive... big animals. Like a deer the size of a moose!!! It was actually tricky driving as the animals were numerous and really didn't fear vehicles and the movement.

We stopped for breakfast at Williams, AZ, where the rural route links back up with the interstate. Our destination was the Denny's, which was filled with the locals ordering up breakfast and spinning yarns. It could have passed for the bait shed in Canso in regards to the nature of the conversation (which we quite obviously were eavesdropping upon). Paraphernalia from the local Lions Club hung on the walls of the restaurant... I thought that interesting. We had a solid breakfast and enjoyed the "ambience" before heading back to the highway.

Once again this day would see us cross the Continental Divide, this time heading east and marked by signs on the highway. The divide is the name given to the principal, and largely mountainous, hydrological divide of the Americas that separates the watersheds that drain into the Pacific Ocean from the Atlantic and Arctic Oceans. We knew at this point that we were on the way home.

In easternmost Arizona lies the Petrified Forest National Park. We visited the park's Visitor Information Centre to find out more and learned, from the centre video, how the Petrified wood was formed. Over 200 million years ago, logs washed into an ancient river system and were buried quick enough and deep enough by massive amounts of sediment and debris also carried in the water, that oxygen was cut off and decay slowed to a process that would now take centuries. Minerals, including silica dissolved from volcanic ash, absorbed into the porous wood over hundreds and thousands of years crystallized within the cellular structure, replacing the organic material as it broke down over time. Sometimes crushing or decay left cracks in the logs. Here large jewel-like crystals of clear quartz, purple amethyst, yellow citrine, and smoky quartz formed.

Of note, we especially found the entrance to New Mexico a series of quite spectacular landscapes. Carving through the mountains here, with swales gouged into the brilliantly colored rocks left us looking more than driving. Interesting trip... as we grew more comfortable in thinking we'd seen all we could see a turn of a corner would reveal something entirely new. America is more vast and diverse than I ever gave credit for!!!

That night, at the edge of the Rio Grande, we buried our heads in fluffy white pillows in Albuquerque. We relaxed in the pool, our big room, carved off several layers of dust in the shower, broke bread (actually "nommed" on pizza), did our specific research and communication online, and shared together some "unbiased" American coverage of the Olympics. We were to push fairly hard back across the western plains of the southern U.S. over the coming days and all slept well.

Day 17 - Albuquerque, NM to Oklahoma City, OK

Once again, we stayed at a Hampton in Albuquerque... they have been perfect during our trip as we need the sustenance of breakfast before hitting the road, free parking, a pool, free internet... really no hidden costs and we knew exactly what we were getting. It's important to have that peace of mind during such a trip.

We made our way across the city and up the mountainside adjacent. However, we quickly ran into a field of smoke that became difficult to drive through. At first, I thought forest fire or a structure burning beside the road. We came to find out that it was a truck on fire trying to ascend the highway over the pass. Nasty... reiterated that we needed to take care of the car and not push too hard through the next leg of our journey.

The days itinerary was to pass through New Mexico, skip through Amarillo and the northern adjunct of Texas, into Oklahoma to rest for the night in Oklahoma City. Thankfully, Janie carried out the bulk of the mountain driving and did a great job. She's been stalwart in making her way through that terrain. Eventually, we made our way out of the mountains on Day 17, and were in the open territory of Texas and Oklahoma. Warm though, with the heat at one point measuring 44 Celsius outside (via car thermostat). Stinking hot!!!

Good run though, and by late afternoon we were ready for check in at Hampton in Oklahoma City. We had one spot we thought that it would be prudent to visit while there, the Oklahoma City National Memorial. The Oklahoma City National Memorial honors the victims, survivors, rescuers, and all who were changed forever on April 19, 1995 when bomber Timothy McVeigh terrorized the city/nation through the placing of explosives in a vehicle near the Federal Building. Inside, 168 chairs stand as a poignant reminder of each life lost, articulated as the absence felt by family members and friends. We were quiet, the site was solemn, and a fitting reminder of the loss. In some ways, it felt so much like a precursor that foreshadowed 9/11 and the tragedy in NYC. It was a serene moment.

That evening we enjoyed supper near our hotel and settled nicely to a restful evening in our hotel room. Cities seem to rise from nowhere in America, whether it be in barren Nevada, or the desert landscape of Arizona... despite nature's best the folks south of us don't mind pushing the limits of where and when they can settle!!!

Day 18 - Oklahoma City, OK to St. Louis, MO

Big time travel day, as we continued to follow Rte 66 and swoop northeast to St. Louis from Oklahoma City. The landscape changed, as we moved from the open plains of Oklahoma to the treed and rolling hills of the Mississippi River Valley. Things were quickly beginning to look more familiar as we jumped eastward.

Now one of the things that Janie likes to bring along are audiobooks that we play on the trip. With lots of highway time on the return trip Janie started our second book, “The Art of Racing in the Rain”, which she downloaded for such a run of highway. Good story about Enzo the dog... as he takes stock of his life while on his deathbed. Clever story and we were all absorbed with the storyline and characters... although we did flinch/chuckle when the dog dropped a couple of f-bombs having to do with missing thumbs!!! Well planned consumer of attention as we entered and crossed the mid-west.

Great driving across Oklahoma and Missouri, with excellent highways. We did see our first tolls since leaving eastern US weeks prior. It was not common in the western interstate highways. On our way we stopped for subs at Jimmy John's... a neat little sandwich chain we found here. By suppertime we were entering downtown St. Louis.

Smooth arrival and check in at St. Louis, and after arranging our evening digs we hit the streets to visit the Jefferson Memorial of Westward Expansion and the Gateway Arch, just two blocks away. Upon arrival we found a relatively quiet attraction with no line-ups or "hustlers". Janie and the kids decided to ride in the arch to the top (I didn't know that even existed) while I visited the memorial found in the underground centre beneath the Arch. The trip to the top was in a rather "bubble-like" pod that took visitors to small windows that overlooked the city and the Mississippi River. While that occurred, I brushed up on my expansion history recalling critical events such as the Louisiana Purchase and Lewis and Clark expedition. I really enjoyed it!!!

After some obligatory Arch snapshots, we made our way home via the Tigin Irish Pub located so conveniently on the bottom floor of our hotel. Hmmm... the Guinness and grub (The kids and I had Fish & Chips and Janie tried some chicken and shrimp Boxty - a potatoe pancake) hit the spot perfectly. Then off to bed to get a solid sleep before an off day set aside for fun and amusement at Six Flags. Good night!!!

Day 19 - St. Louis, MO to Memphis, TN

Kind of a laid back start this morning, with a 9:30 am departure from the city to Six Flags - St. Louis, just 15 miles outside in the town of Eureka. Set up to be a warm one. Great trip with little traffic. Took us a little over half an hour. Passes worked perfectly... And from the prepaid parking to park admission the online tix were time savers.

Six Flags is one of the larger amusement park chains in the US. Kids and Janie spent the morning on the many rides in the main portion of the park. Favorites included a couple of the more rickety wooden roller coasters. Then we all settled into " Hurricane Harbour" for the afternoon, quite in response to the 100 plus Fahrenheit temperatures. Wave pool, Lazy River, water slides... Lots of fun. Everyone spent the balance of the afternoon in and out of the water, as presented in its many forms. Monica got an extra "shake" on her last ride and then the wave pool spouted from a backed up filter, so we cut our losses and boogied out after a full run of rides.

Then we jumped in the car and headed directly for Memphis, Tennessee. It was a good drive... Arrived at about 8:30 pm. Crossed Missouri and the tip of Arkansas, as well as the mighty Mississippi River. Memphis, for a Tuesday night, seemed busy but we checked in without issue and settled in for the night. Too funny... When we checked into our room there was an open bible, with a passage specifically for travelers laid out. Somehow it didn't fit the "look" we got entering Memphis. Then again, maybe that's the perfect setting for such images and words. With a great view of Union Avenue we shut our eyes and slept well, with no travel required in the morning.

Day 20 - Memphis, TN

I was up early and caught a leisurely stroll in the neighborhood, walking our block and some of Beale Street. Pretty tame at 6:00 am. Then back with all hands sourcing some breakfast. We really hadn't made up our minds in regards to attractions, but we jumped out into the streets of Memphis to see what there was to see.

On the recommendation of Greg MacGillivray, we headed to Sun Studio. This tiny recording studio on the edge of Union Ave. has been described as the birthplace of Rock n' Roll. Early recordings of American pop royalty such as Presley, Cash, Orbison and Lewis were done at Sun Records. The site consists of a memorabilia shop on the first floor, then a guided tour upstairs through the early days of Rock. We had a super tour guide that really helped us and the kids get into the "vibe" - He was a true storyteller. Then we spent some time in the actual studio itself, and once again the guide shared anecdotes that brought the room alive. Fun spot...

Remarkably, Sun provides a free shuttle ride to Graceland and back. Excellent service which saved us a lot of complication (not too mention dollars). We also got a peek at some of the city which was fun. All at once, "We're goin' to Graceland"!

Really hadn't researched this so I did not know what to expect, but all was easy and worked out well. Our shuttle shortly dropped us off at the door, and we picked up tickets (which I did find a bit on the expensive side). We were then fixed with audio guides and ushered to another shuttle which took us across the street and to Graceland Mansion. Once out, we got the "rules and regs" and entered.

I guess everyone creates a mental picture of what something might look like, prior to actually seeing. I must have with Graceland. I expected opulence, over the top as Elvis often exhibited on stage. Yet, I found it modest to the extent I'm sure it could have been. The rooms were nicely furnished and from living room to jungle room it was great viewing. Kind of a retro trip through the early 70's at the same time which was fun. The trophy room brought to bear the breadth of his career, be it music or movie, and how Elvis touched the popular sense of generations. Back on site, we loved the exhibits, cars / planes, and the entire "gaudiness" of jump suits, spangle and loose hips. Kids were into it too!

After a short trip and an interesting conversation with a couple of visitors from Minnesota, we caught the shuttle back into the city with designs on an afternoon lunch. We stopped at the Beale St. Hard Rock Cafe and left full. This one was littered with Elvis memorabilia which was fun to look at... Pictures, clothes and the like. Each time we get into one of these establishments we spend half our time wandering about looking at the collections fastened to the walls!!! Then we walked home via Beale Street, which was blocked to vehicles (actually with police vehicles and horses) but totally open to pedestrian traffic.

Once back to Union Ave. Peter and I hunkered down for a bit while Janie and Monica went across the street to watch the Ducks at Peabody's. The ducks are visitors at the hotel, and are trained by the "duckmaster" to stay in the hotel fountain during the day, and move via the elevator back and forth to an upstairs room everyday to the delight of visitors. After nearly 80 years, the marble fountain in the hotel lobby is still graced with ducks that march at 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. daily. The girls enjoyed the antics.

Then it was to the pool (we made great use of pools everywhere we went) and some evening snacks. The kids were entirely worn out and quickly settled in to the beds with some TV. Janie and I decided to go walk about and take in an hour or so of Beale St. activities. When we arrived we found out we were there on "Bike Night", seeing the closed streets lined with every manner of motorcycle, leather and chaps everywhere. Most visitors garnered plastic beer cups, which we quickly sourced, filled and wandered with others. After doing a lap around the block, we stopped at Mr. Handy's Blues Hall, of a vintage I would describe as "authentic", and caught half a dozen numbers from a seasoned Delta Blues act. We really enjoyed this and could have stayed the night!!!

Day 21 - Memphis, TN to Knoxville,TN

Early out of Memphis in an effort to beat traffic... Went well as we got up on the Interstate with ease and scooched around the city without difficulty. Memphis was a treat and we enjoyed the entire feel there, both in the streets and in the attractions. Great stop for anyone loving the history of popular music.

As part of our commute across Tennessee we decided to visit Shiloh National Military Park, located due west of the city of Memphis. The Battle of Shiloh was one of the first major battles in the Western Theater of the American Civil War. The two-day battle, involved about 65,000 Union troops under Ulysses S. Grant and 44,000 Confederates under Albert Sidney Johnston (killed in the battle). We visited the site of his death while there. The battle resulted in nearly 24,000 killed, wounded, and missing.

While at the park we especially enjoyed the area that surrounds Shiloh Church, and a reconstruction erected in 2003 on the historical site by the Tennessee Sons of Confederate Veterans. The church is a replica, but it gives a great feel for what it may have looked like during the battle. At the Visitor Centre we took in some artefacts and an excellent video of the prelude and history of the actual battle. We took the battlefield driving tour and picked off several sites like Pittsburgh Landing and the national cemetery (as well as spotting several beautiful red deer).

We headed out to make the trip past Nashville on to Knoxville, TN and the drive was becoming more and more like we see in Nova Scotia and "Upper Appalachia". Made great time and worked through the lengthy state of Tennessee. After making our destination and getting checked in when landing in Knoxville, we went out for a great supper at Cracker Barrel. Good feed and our excellent waiter, Eric, provided us with everything required and the lay of the land. Good stop with us getting fed, rested and prepped for the next day.