Athens ’25 – Day 3

Sunday evening was “The Crash”… we finally got some sleep. It was definitely required and proved absolutely essential as Monday we were physically on the move, and up and at it early with a huge walkabout! After sourcing coffees, we made our way towards the Acropolis for 8:00 AM timed entry. Along the way, we explored beautiful Anafiotika nestled in the shadows of this ancient setting of temples. This unique neighbourhood of white washed stone homes and alleys seems to overlap and stack in a totally unorganized fashion. Definitely worth taking the time to visit.

We also stopped at Areopagus Hill, which towers over the Ancient Agora, to survey the sprawling city and grab a few photos of Athens in the warm morning light. At midnight last night we heard fireworks, and found remnants of firecrackers all over the area. But the real beauty is in the view below… the city just seems to roll on forever from this vantage point.

We queued for the Acropolis at about 7:30 AM, visiting from the Western entrance with a few of the other early risers. We passed through the obligatory ticket and security check, helped out a young Latvian traveller (security would not let the 16 year old in without someone to vouch for her), and hiked up the western slope to this World UNESCO Site. Gotta say we were both pretty excited. The Acropolis site hosts a series of ancient temples, including one of our planet’s most famous buildings, the Parthenon.

The first site we passed was the Theatre of Dionysus Eleuthereus, simply a splendid amphitheater that remains a working performance space for a summer concert series. The route also takes visitors past the Temple of Athena Nike, dedicated to the goddesses Athena and Nike, and through the Propylaia, monumental ceremonial gateway to the Acropolis. It’s a bit like hanging out with the gods… the architecture is immense! The building is considered an enduring symbol of Ancient Greece, democracy, and Western Civilization.

Next to the Parthenon is the Erechtheion, a Greek temple dedicated to the worship of Athena Polias and Poseidon-Erechtheus. The temple features a porch with 6 caryatids… six sculptures of women that support the roof. It remains as one of the most iconic examples of classical Greek architecture in the world.

The Parthenon is nothing short of magnificent in person… felt like standing in the Colosseum, viewing the NY skyline from the Empire State, or the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles. Leaves one kicking their heels! The symmetry, the story and the legacy are mythical, whether it be treasury, church, munitions dump, everlasting Greek political symbol, or site of ongoing restoration. Simply incredible!

Our hike down ended, reasonably we thought, at the Acropolis Museum. A modern tribute that both understands, marvels and celebrates this architectural treasure. We arrived to a mostly quiet space and had ample time to peruse the many artefacts, sculptural pieces and opened archaeological digs that around found underneath the museum (but displayed through glass floors 😳). Modern addition to the Athenian cultural scene. Oh… and I’d be remiss if I didn’t note the impressive Acropolis view from the third floor Gallery! We absolutely enjoyed the visit with the caveat, however, that what we’d most like to see is the Elgin Marbles reclaimed to this beautiful space, and returned to their rightful owners.

Foodie alert… we needed a pick me up to counter the early start, unending steps and museum focus. We grabbed coffee and a snack… our first “baked” Greek treat of the trip – Spanikopita! The most descriptive summary we could come up with was “messy & yummy”! Philo pastry wrapped around a spinach, onion and feta mixture for a very tasty snack. As things go… Janie is already planning the attack to try that dish at home. As a teaser, I think we get to make this dish later in the trip so stay tuned on that little tidbit!

We then took on a sweep of the Acropolis neighbourhood, starting at Hadrian’s Arch (a relic of the Roman era in Athens). It is one of this multifaceted experiences, where an ancient triumphal arch is nestled into a busy 2025 intersection. The contrasting images are stark. In fact, this is an excellent example of how one almost stumbles into ancient ruins around this city, as both Hadrian”s Library and the Roman Agora are found nestled and tightly surrounded by streets and urban neighborhoods.

Please note that when purchasing our Acropolis tix we opted for the “Combo” ticket, which opened up a whole selection of sites (ancient ruins) for visiting. One of these sites, adjacent to the arch, is The Temple of Olympian Zeus. These ruins were once a sanctuary where Greeks could worship Zeus, the king of the Olympian gods, and witness the Olympic games that took place there every four years. It’s no more than a quick 15 minute stop. Also nearby (but not part of the combo) we stopped to survey the Panathenaic Stadium. This stadium, a marble structure created for the modern Olympic Games in 1896, is worth a look 👀. We did it on the cheap… snapped a photo from outside!

Across the street are the Zappeion and National Gardens. These sites are also well worth carving into a look. I think, with the Zappeion, it was the amazing yellow color that caught my attention. A huge Wine Festival was being hosted… and we could sense the celebration as we walked by 🍷. The National Garden, located behind the Zappeion, is a sanctuary within the city. It was quiet, calm and refreshing all at the same time… but in the very heart of Athens. A serene stop! Followed by a relaunch into the hectic Syntagma area, where we saw the Greek Parliament, Syntagma Square, and a bustling Ermou Street (Athens gritty version of the Champs-Élysées 😂). Last stop, the small church, the Church of Kapnikarea, nestled smack amid this bristling commercial district… an exercise in contrast! I’d like to add, this point in today’s blog has all played out before 1:00 PM! Very walkable 🥾 city, and a pretty ambitious itinerary 😬.

After return home, and a pause of about an hour, we spent the afternoon closer to home, visiting the Ancient Agora. Visible from the veranda at our accommodation, we entered this site looking to view two more amazing buildings. One very old, the other very new 👍! The agora itself was best described as “… a point of reference in the everyday life of the Athenians.” Here commercial transactions, political gatherings and elections, trials, theatrical performances, religious processions, military exercises and athletic competitions, social gatherings and philosophy lessons took place. Our first stop was the rebuilt Stoa of Attalos, an exacting full size replica of the Greek meeting area that once stood in the very spot. Simply amazing to experience what these buildings would have looked like. I loved the “linear” nature of the space… Janie loved the curiously out of place tortoise 🐢 she found roaming nearby.

The second highlight of the Agora is the Temple of Hephaestus, in short the most well preserved structure we have seen in Athens. Nestled in the trees overlooking the agora, this building would have been one of the more moderately sized temples. A true testament to Greek craftsmanship, it has stood all the trauma several millennia can throw, be it war, earthquake, fire or pollution. Best of all, in immediate view from our balcony!

Our bellies, and hearts, were starting to say “Feed Me”. At Mystilli (conveniently just underneath our balcony) we had the Greek salad and one of today’s specials, “Gigades” (Giant beans cooked in the oven with fresh tomato sauce). Absolutely delicious! The service was every bit as good as the food. We were treated to a beautifully simple yet divine treat for dessert – frozen yogurt with jammed quince (we had to look them up – very close to a pear). Wow! In a parting conversation, our maître d’ noted most Greeks eat late (9:00 PM) and that for the majority dining out in Athens would be prohibitive in regard to cost.

After supper the feet went up, and a huge nap followed to recharge some weary soles! We gathered enough to script some web updates and hit the streets again. Tonight’s adventure played out in the Psyrri neighborhood of Athens. For a Monday evening, this place was vibing! Live music, bars, restaurants, street bling (lights, decorations, graffiti) and offbeat shops! It had a genuine energy. We walked the maze of streets and felt very safe. Oh… and just one Greek treat this evening just off Monastiraki Square. Loukamades 😋. Looking like a good ol’ Canadian TimBit, these babies are less like dough and almost like a batter. The difference, however, was in the trimmings. Topped with Greek honey and cinnamon it was a very sweet treat we shared and was a thumbs up. Then to the balcony for a refreshment and a stare at the Acropolis. All in, this marathon day (no pun intended) saw over 28,000 steps but we wouldn’t have had it an other way!

… Athens ’25 – Day 4