Canada 150 – Kejimkujik Loop
Day 1 – Antigonish – Liverpool
With a packed RAV4 we left at 11:30 AM from Antigonish. We were well prepped with camping gear, BBQ, and even a new DC Cooler plugged into the back seat. We were a little freaked because the SUV had a batch of lights that came on for 4WD/Engine just before we departed. Stopped by Mike’s and he was quick to dispel any need for worry. The trip to the South Shore was uneventful with traffic moving well with minimal construction.
On our way to White Point, our evening accommodation, we passed through Liverpool and stopped downtown at the Hell Bay Brewing Company. After securing a couple of “Wee Heavy” Scotch Ales we continued to White Point Beach Resort for a smooth check in for our room in the Lakeside Resort. Great room with all the trimmings… Big king size bed, huge bathroom and wonderful stone fireplace. All just perfect!
We settled quickly and got our hiking shoes on to prepare for the drive to nearby Kejimkujik National Park – Seaside Adjunct near Port Joli. The park covers the bulk of the point of land that juts into the Atlantic and we rallied after a long drive to take the 5 km return hike on the main trail to the beach. Lots of wildlife on the move, including seals barking from their sunny location on the rocks, a red-tailed hawk patrolling the marsh, and the many seabirds on rock and sand. A large part of the park, the sandy beach on the eastern edge of the park, was closed for the protection of Piping Plovers. Solid visit.
We had worked up a hunger and decided to stop by Seaside Seafoods, for the advertised “Worlds Best Clams!” on the way home. Hopping busy Monday Night but we managed to get served and enjoyed the ocean side shack style dinners of clams or fish with fries. Excellent mug up… This kind of stop reminds me of how much this shore of NS and coastal Maine are so similar.
Everyone had a great night at White Point. We went on a quick walkabout around the resort, enjoyed the view of the beach, sampled a couple of craft ales/snacks and admired the fire in the massive fireplace. We settled into the obligatory HGTV for an hour or so of entertainment listening to the crackle of softwood in the fireplace. It was a great sleep!
Day 2 – Liverpool to Kejimkujik National Park
Huge sleep in our cozy room! We concocted an early breakfast and then readied for check out. All went normally. Our first stop of the day was actually the Superstore in Liverpool for any food supplies required for the upcoming overnight camping. Then, it was across the province via Rt 8 and the 50 minute drive to Kejimkujik National Park entrance. Here we were quickly registered and were provided with all the necessary information to get the most out of our short stay.
Being several hours prior to check in for our site, we decided on securing bike rentals ($70 for 3 for 2 hrs) through Keji Outfitters at Jake’s Landing. The helpful staff there charted a two trail bike loop (through the Mersey/Slapfoot Trails) over roughly 8kms of woodland trails. None of us had really biked recently, but found the multi surface trail the perfect choice for a run. Along the way we stopped for a picnic lunch at the head of Mersey Trail, then picked up the Slapfoot Trail along the Jeremy Bay Campground. Great exercise!
By mid afternoon we had returned our bikes and were ready to check in to our reserved accommodation… Our choice being a Parks Canada “Yurt”. Ingenious little round tent structure complete with bunks, futon, table and wood stove. We loved it and quickly settled in. Evening saw us prepare a full supper enjoyed by all and campfire on Mersey River at Jake’s Landing. I foolishly experimented with the Wood stove (Jotul), making the evening a bit warmer than expected, but everyone found some sleep (pushed I think by the afternoon’s bike ride) in an entirely natural setting.
Day 3 – Kejimkujik National Park to Cape Blomidon
Once again we dined at the river’s edge having a big camp out breakfast of sausage, eggs and potatoes over a charcoal fire. Good reviews on the hearty start to the day! Then, as quickly as we’d gotten up, all hands fell back asleep ’til almost 8:00 AM. We packed up the RAV4, gave the yurt a once over, and departed at 8:30 AM from Keji for 40 minute Drive up Rt #8 to Annapolis Royal. We were impressed with the forests on either side of the park and the huge stands of trees that exist in this part of the province.
Upon arrival in Annapolis Royal we had one thing on our minds… Coffee! We decided to stop at the bright yellow German Bakery, just across from Fort Anne, for coffee and strudel. The hot drink and snack were welcome and although we parted with $25 bucks it was a tasty treat. Then across the harbour to our first National Historic Site of the day, Port Royal.
It had been some time since I’d visited Port Royal (I’m guessing at least 25 years), site of the French Habitation of Samuel de Champlain in 1605. Enough time had lapsed to make the sights and sounds of the grounds new. It was quiet and we entered for free to a leisurely paced roam of the reconstruction moving in and out of the many rooms and speaking with guides. The Order of Good Cheer room seemed much smaller than I remember. We enjoyed the visit and appreciated the history and effort it must take to maintain a site with so much wood and stone… Nicely done!
Then it was back to Annapolis Royal and Fort Anne National Historic Site and her well kept grounds that overlook the harbour. Got an interesting picture of the main building as the fog rolled past. While at the site we toured the exhibits within the Visitor Centre and then walked the grounds checking out the munitions bunkers. However, after getting caught in a brief shower we turned our attention to making our way towards our end of day reservation and opted for Rt#1 to Bridgetown / Highway 101 to Kentville.
When we hit Kentville we had a couple of stops in mind… Some groceries to fill the larder and craft beer stop at Paddy’s. Both happened on the quick and easy, with the cooler ready to roll for an evening of camping in short order and a pair of “Grunters” filled with Paddy’s craft brew. Then across the dikes towards Canning and up the steep slope to the heights of Blomidon Provincial Park. We were met at the gate by an employee and were checked in being provided with all necessary information in regards to services and activities. We loved watching the steady drop in temperature as we got closer to the park and the refreshing breeze we found at the top.
Then it was promptly to our site to set up the tent and organize. Post prep, Monica wanted to swim. Thus, we drove to the park entrance so we could test the waters. Swimming here isn’t for the meek… It was rocky and darn refreshing (actually freezing was the word used). After a speedy dip we retreated back to Campsite # 8 and settled on a hike along the Jodrey Trail. Estimating that we did about a 3.5 km return portion of the journey, the trail winds uphill along a wooded section of the coastline and affords wooden look offs that allow hikers to view the expanse of the Minas Basin. Gets pretty impressive as one climbs parallel to the “Actively Eroding” sea wall.
The remainder of the evening was taken up with preparing supper, a quick drive into town and an evening campfire with snacks and a couple of craft beer. We really enjoyed this NS Provincial Park. It was fully equipped with picnic table and fire pit, lots of open space while maintaining cover for privacy, and very well kept sites and washroom areas. Great deal too… I’m thinking about $25 in for the night for the three of us and our tent plus $5 for a bundle of wood to burn. Great weather and excellent evening!
Day 4 – Blomidon – Antigonish
Last day of this loop started with another Big Breakfast cooked a la charcoal BBQ (we use a little Weber Smokey). Then clean up and “hit the road”. Janie and I made our first stop, one of a more sentimental nature, at Hennigar’s Market! While at Acadia Janie and I would frequent Hennigar’s with the kids… especially the animal petting area. The old store is looking a little tired, but still has all the same goodies available inside.
Once again, the urge for a coffee pulled us off the road and into “Just Us! Coffee Roasters” located 5 minutes from Wolfville. We love their fair trade products and are quick to try and give back to this long time Stanfest supporter. Their roadside store sells a wide range of tea and coffee products, and we sat in the cafe portion and enjoyed our cup of Joe. It was a 1/2 hour well spent.
Just a skip back towards Wolfville you’ll find Grand Pre National Historic Site. It had obviously been sometime since we’ve dawned its doors, as the Visitor Centre was now brand new and located on the opposite side of the road from our last time at the site. The grounds looks very organized and as always, lush with flowers and vegetation. The interpretive portion of the center winds around the story of the region’s French presence, and of course the “Great Upheaval” of the 1755 deportation. We spent a significant portion of time at the chapel… With both Janie and I unknowingly focusing at different times on the Proclamation housed there that notes the Canadian / Commonwealth stance on responsibility for the deportation. Good read… We chatted about it on the way home.
Then off to make our way home, after a short stop at the now opened Paddy’s Brew Pub (for grunter refills no less). We traveled home via the Glooscap Trail, which skirts the southern coastline of the Minas Basin from Windsor through to Truro. We, in fact, had never gone this route and really enjoyed breaking new trail in our own province. Just before making our way from the coast to Truro, we stopped for a lunch at Anthony Provincial Park (Lr Selma). Great location, with lots of picnic facility and wonderful pier that reaches into the saltwater. We had an excellent meal and proceeded home… Interrupted only by a detour from Highway 104 through Kenzieville due to a truck fire. Home at 3:00 PM for a two night stay until our next loop in Cape Breton. Excellent trip!