Ireland ’22 – Day 5

Powerful rest at the Flint… not budging until 7:00 AM. We puttered in the little kitchenette brewing a coffee, figuring out appliances and pressing buttons & light switches. Overcast skies lit the city from our window as commuters strolled by on the stone walled streets below. Love this location! Today was shaping up to be an extra busy one, as I juggled both Friday’s planned and Thursday’s rescheduled attractions (not wanting to leave anything on the table).

We started our day with a selection that we had very much been looking forward to. In many ways a Dark Tourist idea, we booked Taxi Tours Belfast (Belfast Political & Mural Tour) for an 1 1/2 hr tour in the Shankill Rd / Falls Rd area of Belfast (55£). Pick-up was at our accommodations 9:00 AM sharp and after quick introductions our friendly guide, Cedric, was on the move. Cedric grew up in Belfast during the troubles and was intimately familiar with unique experiences that capture the social, geographic, military, political, economic and historical components of the story of the Troubles. 

Indeed, you’d need to have Cedric relate the story to you himself to get the intricacy and complexity of the struggle here… I’d be nothing more than a pretender. The narrative is layered, complicated and needs to be delivered in context within the streets, peace walls, murals, and gates that continue to be in use to this day. Even more importantly, it needs to be genuine and authentic, relative to the politics of today, and in so many ways a ”no bulls&#t” experience (and when it comes to life here I suspect that BS is not acceptable). Although a level of toleration has been achieved in recent years within factions, make no mistake, the Troubles continue. 

We would highly recommend this tour as a starting point for teachers learning about this city. It is an exercise in understanding how a story needs to be told in a broader timeline (so many contributing factors) and the necessity of scaffolding to support knowing… I felt dumb at the expanse of what I did not bother to be aware about! I like to think there is a vast difference between knowledge and wisdom. Our guide was fantastic at teaching, and although never employed in the field of formal education, he was adept at meeting us where we were and relating what he knew of the broader context as a realist. Well done!

Being close by, Cedric let us out at our next attraction, Crumlin Road Gaol. Oddly, this is our second prison stay of the trip! 😳 This was a pretty cool visit, looking like it’s really geared up for school kids. We didn’t book in advance, but with no line gained entry immediately. The exhibits walk the viewer through a timeline for the Gaol, what life was like within, and exposed the added element of housing incarcerated Catholic/Nationalist/Republicans and Protestant/Loyalist/Unionist in the same facility. Further, the “wheel” motif we had seen at Eastern State Penitentiary in Pennsylvania was evident here as well. Beyond being well organized (and not crowded), the information within was a complementary piece for us, adding to the understanding we had developed from other visits while in Ireland.

From Crumlin Rd we tacked across the city to our final attraction of the day… Titanic Belfast. Our decision was to walk and, although we got turned around a couple of times, built in some exercise and sightseeing. The Museum is part of a massive regeneration project in the Titanic Quarter of Belfast, having portions of the area feeling very ”new”. Upon arrival we connected to the wifi, got to washrooms and took a moment. Titanic Belfast is a mammoth facility with something for everyone. Janie and I enjoyed the exhibits (even the curiously placed ”ride” in a steel cart) and jostled through what was probably the busiest time of day in parts of the complex. Real mixture of artefact, information panel, audio-visual presentation and early Belfast. Excited to find some Halifax mention in the final exhibits (burial site for over 100 lost souls). Probably best visited in the morning/late afternoon to avoid lines/waits. It was busy, but worth the visit!

Speaking of crowds… City Centre in Belfast is a hopping place. We waltzed out to find some supper @ 6:00 PM, coming to rest at Morning Star Pub & Restaurant, and it suited us perfectly. Our initial intent was to seek out some players but we could barely get past the door on the several pubs we’d identified and the nods for good tunes that JP gave us looked promising, but again full. Our find had a quiet, low key pub atmosphere with a solid meal. We had mains of Pork Belly & Meat Pie 🥧 that were done very well. After supper and an after dark stroll home, Janie managed a load of laundry and we threw in a late evening walk for good measure. 👍

Tip: If you’re gonna jockey for a table at a pub in Belfast, you have to get on the move early. Should note that it seems most pub style establishments wind up food service early to make space for the drink! To boot… Friday night, long weekend, and bums in a lot of seats in Belfast. She’s lively!!!

So… last night in Belfast. Can’t say that we’ve done anything but enjoy our time here. This is a destination that wouldn’t have happened in the not so distant past, and we most certainly appreciated the opportunity. Tomorrow morning we commute back to Dublin and more of that fine city’s offerings.

…Ireland ’22 – Day 6