After a couple of quick coffees at the Art Hotel we grabbed the U1 and headed to the railway station and towards our first attraction. We grabbed sandwiches and coffee while on the move and found ourselves in good order as we began our walk. On the way to the our first stop we strolled through the Swiss Garden (Schweizergarten). Strange name that Janie picked up on… an info sign informed us the park had been renamed (previously Maria-Josepha-Park) to recognize the Swiss people for taking in some 61,000 Viennese children post WWI (in response to Vienna’s people suffering from starvation). The wind was cool though, so we didn’t linger in the park long.
From here we entered the Arsenal complex and present day Museum of Military History. This is an extensive collection of Austrian Military history covering centuries! Very good English information available through downloaded App (free of charge). Highlights for us included Austrian entanglements with Napoleon, the vehicle Archduke Ferdinand and his wife were assassinated in, and much of the WWII exhibits. We noted that although the collection is extensive, portions of the information barely brush parts of this country’s controversial history. Frankly, there still seems reluctance in the information presented to take more responsibility for roles in WWI / WWII and address crimes against humanity. We thought our Berlin museum visits met this head on, but Vienna not so much! Otherwise, a broad showcase of Austrian history and the role of the military. Great stop that we spent some two hours touring.
The Belvedere Palace is located just 10 minutes walking time from the Military Museum and we had timed entry Tix for 11:30 AM. The Palace and properties are immense. The Upper Belvedere houses multiple genres of art from Viennese Modernism, and works of Gustav Klimt & Egon Schiele, to Austrian art from the Middle Ages and the Baroque. We saw Klimt’s Kiss, came face-to-face with the famous “Character Heads” of Messerschmidt, and Jacques Louis David’s famous Napoleon portrait (seen here). Great stop with views of the expansive grounds, endless architectural features and a broad (but not overwhelming) collection of works. Thumbs up!!!
Post Art Gallery, it was time for a walk about, just to break up the content (and side-step ever growing crowds). We picked a street side eatery, “Am Platzl” Cafe Imbiss, that Janie sourced and we pounced on the sausage & schnitzel offerings. Pretty yummy actually… and prepped with great care! Also were privy to a nasty little spat in the neighbouring property that seemed to sort itself out with parties stomping off in opposite directions. Got loud for a minute 😳!
Then off to gather a subway pass and trek to Schönbrunn Palace (part of the Sisi purchase we started on Tuesday). Another grand palace with extensive gardens and room after room of royal opulence. The focus was on the Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth… and life as it rolled out in the Imperial Residence. A highlight for us, however, was a tidbit we learned about John F Kennedy and Nikita Khrushchev meeting in the Hall of Mirrors for the Vienna Summit. Janie managed an illicit picture seen above (photos not allowed). Another solid visit!
On the way back to the city centre we hopped off the U4 near Naschmarkt, an outdoor market with foods and wares of all sorts. We stopped for coffees, but really enjoyed the feast of colors, whether it be the candy / fruits / spices / vegetables / meats / seafood / clothing… you name it! We grabbed a few minutes here for drinks and planning for a couple of itinerary adjustments as well. Great attraction… didn’t seem quite priced for locals however 🤨!
Just a snippet here, but we stumbled into a series of monuments just before our next visit. Named the Memorial Against War and Fascism, this is a work by the Austrian sculptor Alfred Hrdlicka. It’s erected on the site of a bomb attack that occurred on March 12, 1945. Hundreds of people who had sought shelter in cellars were killed. Some of the buried could not be excavated; only 180 bodies were recovered. The exact number of victims could not be determined. The monument is dedicated to all victims of war and fascism.
One more stop before we called it a day… the Albertina. This is a very impressive Gallery! Really a highlight reel of some of the best. Impressionist works by the likes of Monet, Cezanne, Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Matisse, Signac and onward. We’ve always loved that very accessible style of art. A great feature in several exhibit spaces with information that highlighted reproduction processes. Included were video segments that described woodcuts, engraving, and lithography, all supported with works by artists such as Durer, Rembrandt and Munch. We finished in the Alex Katz “Cool Painting” collection which was new for us, and a refreshing way to retire for the day to regroup. Tickets aren’t cheap in Vienna, but we feel like we selected well for our full day on the ground here and we’re rewarded with the offerings.
Tonight’s festivity… Horvath Weinstüberl! On Hinchey’s nod we opted to head out this evening to a local Heuriger (Viennese word for a wine tavern). These small but lovely, rustic places are like being invited into the wine growers wooden cabins to enjoy their wares. We did a little research prior to departure hoping not to be too ridiculous when ordering. We nailed some choices from an online menu that we liked including Brettljause (basically a meat, spreads & cheese platter) and Spitellberger Flammkuchen (maybe best described as a flat pizza). The beer / wine were totally drinkable! We had a great couple of hours of “Austrian” interaction, especially with the young lady who waited on us (a nutrition student at a local university). Great evening!!!
Ruh-Ro Raggy… fell among the thieves on the way back from the Heuriger on the way home. Landed at Bockshorns Irish Pub for refreshments and company into the wee hours! Landlocked Irish lads and wanna-bees like “me-self” drinking the mothers milk vitamin “G”. We shut ‘er down and made our way home in the wee hours knowing all too well morning would be quick! Slainthe!
Spectacular journey thus far…. Love reading about your exploits!
A steady pace and seeing lots !
Enjoy…..
Hey Andrew… on the way to Prague as I write… steady pace for sure and we’re looking forward to our last stop and settling into our final “new city”! Budapest was absolutely gorgeous, Vienna as smart as ever, and fingers crossed 🤞 that Praha is good to us. Thanks for following along and cheers to the folks in Main River… 🤓