Coming off two great days prowling Madrid, we had some travel business to take care of first thing Monday morning. We headed directly for the Atocha Train Station (via subway) to pick up train tickets for Tuesday travel to and from Toledo. Online posts had warned against relying on availability and waiting last minute. So… adventures with Renfe (Spanish train conglomerate) as we cozied up to the self serve machine. Inevitably, Janie and I get into a snarl at automatic ticket machines. However, this was not bad (really)… just one hiccup in that the first machine we tried had run out of tickets. Second shot was golden and we departed happy with the times, date and cost of tickets.
Hoping that the Museo del Jamon may be open, we sauntered past its closed doors headed for an eventual visit to the famous Prado. Madrid doesn’t exactly move early, and we found that our outings before 10:00 AM met closed establishments. Thus, having an hour or so before opening, we made our way through the Prado area to Parque del Buen Retiro, Madrid’s popular outdoor park. It was a relaxing stroll past statues, dog walkers, shaped trees, flower beds and rowers in the lake. We exited through the main entrance and a now vacant Alcala Gate, the triumphal arch that was the site of the demonstration we happened upon two days prior.
We looped that area and arrived back at our first visit of the day, the Museo del Prado. The Prado is a highly-acclaimed art museum and one of the most-visited attractions in Madrid. We slipped past the initial line-up, having previously purchased Paseo del Arts tickets online. At opening we wandered into the vast collection that is the Prado… essentially floors of art that delve into the Spanish Masters, while giving way to European and works from around the globe. Works of Spanish artists such as Velasquez (including Las Meninas), Picasso & Goya (special exhibits) and El Greco were abundant. We also enjoyed Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights up close and personal, as well as Durer’s Self-Portrait. Excellent visit… plus a side conversation with a StFX garb wearing alumni that happened to stroll by. This gallery is heavy duty, in the same league as the Uffizi and the Louvre in my estimation!
Then we ran the Red Line and took the subway out to Las Ventas bullfighting ring and Plaza de Toros. With no bullfights scheduled, we opted for the self-guided tour of the legendary ring. I think I might have purchased tickets for a bullfight, had one been scheduled, for the experience alone. Described passionately as an art form in the confines of Las Ventas, these events remain controversial as animal activists dispute the inherent cruelty. The building is gorgeous, and Mudeajar in its architectural styling. The event, as described in the audio guide, is laden with tradition and strongly linked to Spanish culture. Our tour included access to ring side areas where animals are released into the ring and where matadors prepare to take them on!
Then back into city center via subway, to visit Palacio Real. Royalty in Madrid seemed to have few boundaries, as the treasury must have been exercised freely to maintain these digs. We had a good visit (after we cleared a snotty, grunting ticket seller at entry) to scour the armory and rooms of the palace. The armory was well done (especially with the knights mounted on models horses) and had a surprising collection of weaponry. Pretty fascinating to tour the rooms, decor, clocks (seemed like hundreds) and throne seats in the palace as well. Got busy in there, with our afternoon visit, but tolerable. Well worth a look if you’re interested in the way royals lived!
Getting a bit on the peckish side, we decided on an afternoon lunch in Plaza Mayor. It was the perfect choice, as there was lots to watch under a covered tent (and heat lamp) with nicely chosen snacks and cerveza. We must have spent at least an hour relaxing and soaking up the atmosphere (not to mention Olive Oil and bread). The curious (or bizarre) shiny, tinseled goat man in the plaza was a little freakish… I think scaring people more than attracting! Great people watching for sure. Then back at home where we relaxed for an hour or so to recharge the batteries!
Evening supper was a blast! Continuing our experimenting, we ventured out to try a few more new tapas style offerings. This time we stopped at La Tia Cebolla, a small bar that seemed inviting and had a modest tapas menu. We were welcomed with smiles and quickly ordered up some San Miguel. Janie eyed the Seafood Paella from the menu and I decided upon a Seafood Stuffed Onions. The food was perfect… no frills and great service on the charming, worn tables of the tavern. Meanwhile, I had struck up a conversation with a couple sitting next to us. By supper’s end, it was a full blown party, with the waiter actually dropping a few free beers on the table! The couple were from Norway, had traveled to Canada, and we found lots of common ground. Too much fun!
Later, we continued to enjoy the balcony view of Puerta del Sol on our last night in Madrid. Part way through the evening we actually snuck down into the crowds in the square to try and satisfy Janie’s curiosity regarding the goings on of one particular young lady she had watched for two evenings. She, in fact, had been approaching people all evening and escorting them away from the square and up one of the side streets. We, in our totally North American garb and look, went into stealth across the square to see where they were headed. Imagining some syndicate or crime ring, we were somewhat unimpressed by the fact she was only luring patrons to a bar that was located off street and around the corner. Fun though…