Up and at it early… looking for a Barclay’s ATM so I could grab a few more Euros. I went walk about and took the subway to the Pombaline Square area to a banking machine I had sourced on Google. Good to go!!! Then back home for breakfast at the Florescente and some planning for our last day, and a morning trip from Lisbon to Sintra. We were unsure of whether Sintra or Cascais would be our destination, but Sintra won out with nice forecast, simple route and our curiosity in regards to the Moorish Castle located there.
We boarded with our Lisboa Card (simple as a swipe) at Rossio station and arrived quietly 40 minutes afterward. Lovely clean rail cars, with us moving away from the flow of workers heading into Lisbon. On the way we saw a huge aqueduct and got a glimpse of the many stations and landscapes that surround the capital. First order of business was securing a coffee, which we found at a local diner in Sintra just beside the station.
After a brief wait we purchased tickets for the Scottour Bus… the main mode of transport from attraction to attraction in Sintra. We bought Yellow loop (Bus 434) tix, which included stops at Sintra National Palace, Moorish Castle and Pena National Palace at 5€ per adult. Good deal! Off to the races to visit the Sintra World Heritage sites…
First on the list was Sintra Palace, but we weren’t so impressed with the opening service! It started with a stagnant line up as we set our sights on the initial set of tickets. Tour guides were bumping ticket line customers and without apology stogged the tour route to a stand still. I guess the palace wasn’t designed for bus tours (tee hee). Of note at Sintra Castle… I thought the kitchen was very cool, with two huge chimneys that could be used to fire roast game. Further, as was the case throughout Lisbon, we saw amazing use of tile as a construction material both indoors and out. However, we mostly expressed relief getting away from the jammed space and moving towards the Moorish Castle.
All I can say is it was a fun bus ride to the castle! Picture this long bus on the steep, narrow up and downhill roads… our vehicle taking both lanes to maneuver turns and around parked vehicles. The attractions, fixed on peaks near Sintra, weren’t designed to be visited by the vehicle we were in. Those guys could drive!
Bus 434 stopped just outside the Moorish Castle, and we quickly hit the trails that wound upward to the castle ruins. It looked as though much work has been done recently, as trails were in excellent condition and service improvements were ahead of the existing signage (i.e. we found a service area not noted on maps inside the castle walls). Upon entering the actual castle our tickets were checked and we moved in immediately. With good walking, we poked our heads above the stone work to a stiff breeze off the Atlantic, clearly visible from the castle heights. It proved an amazing vantage point, with ocean to the west and Lisbon to the southeast.
From here we ventured once again by bus to the next peak, Pena National Palace. This was a bit of a surprise for me! It’s a remarkable showpiece and I would suggest Sintra’s main attraction. After tackling the winding trek to the top, one gets an excellent view of the exterior (we took this picture from the road up after stopping briefly for a packed lunch part way). Tip: For those unable/unwilling to do the walk (it must be stinking hot in late spring-summer), there are shuttles that queue regularly to assist visitors to the palace gates. The architecture is individually styled with vivid colors and fine stone carvings. Inside, the state rooms have been retained as they were in 1910 (when Portuguese royals court fled to Brazil to escape the revolution). Surrounding the Pena Palace are panoramic views of the Sintra region of Portugal. In 1995, the palace was classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. After the climb down, we successfully made the commute back to Sintra, and eventually to Rossio Station in Lisbon. Great side trip and unlike our Madrid excursion to El Escorial, done entirely without guide!
The remainder of our day was spent in relaxation, as we sauntered and explored the fine streets of Lisbon. We toured the Martim Moniz area and stopped at several shops (Janie purchased a belt for Peter there). We hopped on and off trams making our way to the waterfront. At Commercio Square, we sat for more than an hour at the central statue and bus stop, just watching the world go by! From hustler to selfie-taking teens, businessmen to gypsy, we watched… putting faces from home on the passersby. We had an excellent chat with a Belgian couple who sat beside us while awaiting the next tram to Figuera Square. Janie even got to use her French a bit!
In the evening we once again walked through the Chiado area, eventually coming to rest in the Cais do Sodré neighborhood, near the river. Once the seediest part of Lisbon, this area has undergone a series of urban renewal projects that have transformed the area into “chic” Lisbon! We stopped at several bars (first a fake Irish Bar – then a real one) and enjoyed ales, great food and discussions with patron & employee. Turned into real chatty boxes on Friday as we mingled with “tourist and townie” alike. Unfortunately, knowing Saturday would be our travel day, we had to call it a night early to prepare for a morning flight from Lisbon Airport and at least get a few hours rest. Great last moments in Lisbon!