I want to do this page without great opinion or sounding “teachy”… just relate what we saw on our quick take of Ireland / Northern Ireland. And of course, remember that our sampling of there was just over a week, so it’s a cursory view at best. When possible I’ll try and utilize examples that may be more familiar to make connections. In the end, this section is often an exercise in me trying to write through what I’ve seen to build understanding.
Firstly, it needs to be stated that we were treated most courteously everywhere we travelled (both Ireland & Northern Ireland). Be it the service industry professionals (Waiters, Accommodation, Check-In, Guides, Cabs, etc) to the people we met in pubs / attractions, we had no issue. There is a curtness that was used, especially when moving people along, but it was very acceptable and done out of a “no nonsense” character. Indeed, the only real “rudeness” we encountered was a pair of American tourists (terrorists) from Illinois. Ah, if only we were worthy. But indeed Irish charm, a wonderful sense of humour, and brutal honesty were traits of so many of the conversations and points of engagement we experienced.
We hopped from city to city, and as such our time there focused on urban life. We suspect each, in its own right, is still struggling to get back from the economic shutdown of Covid-19. While many businesses were shuttered, others posted “Help Wanted” signs or are training new staff in the long journey back. Street life, panhandling, and addiction were fixtures throughout.
Dublin, Belfast and Galway each left differing impressions. If you’ll indulge, we’ve formed a few notes on each;
- Dublin: Young, spirited, hustling, with swagger, deep historical roots, literary, gregarious… descriptors that readily come to mind for Dublin. In so many ways we connected the flavour of this city with St John’s, NFLD. Our favorite moments (beyond seeing Monica) were spent connecting with a couple at a “local” on a Saturday afternoon.
- Belfast: Modern, relaxed in pace, no-nonsense, complicated, regenerating, delicate… while a flourishing and revitalized city centre thrusts forward, nearby neighbourhoods still close gates at night to prevent sectarian violence. A dichotomy for sure. We will, without question, always remember our experience touring through Shankill/Falls Rds.
- Galway: Hip, young, liberal, Bohemian, open/green-space, pedestrian friendly… unlike Dublin/Belfast, the idea wasn’t to “do” an activity or attraction, but to “not do” it! Perhaps the moment while sitting street side at Sweeney’s pub on Quay St, swaying to the buskers making beautiful music, is our lasting image.
Geographically, these are all cities that were built on river banks, and the water still plays a prominent role. Dublin has the Liffey, Belfast the Lagan and through Galway flows the Corrib, each having histories of trade, industry, fishing and, today, tourism. One certainly gets the sense it’s a maritime culture. NYC has squirrels, Venice is inundated with pigeons… but in Ireland it was seagulls! Watch where you sit and keep an eye overhead 😳!
Of note… the trip felt expensive, and I’d suggest thats due to several reasons. So… what’s the difference? My reckoning is, firstly, that it’s ”high season” and travel costs more (we’ve always done shoulder in Europe). Secondly, its been three years since we travelled and that, coupled with inflation, have impacted pricing. Finally, our ”last minute” decision has taken any deals/early pricing out of the mix. Don’t regret a single ”nickel” 😉!
A final story (at least for now)… Janie and I love to play a game when we rest to enjoy a coffee, meal, or during an attraction. If a recognizable face appears, we’d utter phrases like “There goes …” or ”Who’s … walking with?” and insert names of familiar people we know from home. Well this trip was a hot spot!!! So many faces / voices / mannerisms that looked like home. It’s all in fun, but this time it was close enough to be true! I’m thinking we travelled to a little piece of home.