Okay… we had an awesome sleep and solid breakfast at Hotel Florescente, including a nice cup of coffee, bacon and eggs, fruits and pastries… all the fixin’s. We were ready for our second day in Lisbon.
Firstly, there were two churches that I wanted to visit. Our first was Igreja de São Domingos, a church in Rossio rebuilt after earthquake of 1755. The walls are a mixture of pillars and ceiling that combine pre- and post-earthquake structure, the post being marked in a different color. We sat quietly there and enjoyed part of the mass. If walls could speak! Then we set off for the Gloria Funicular, and to Igreja de São Roque, a Jesuit Church famous for its ceiling, painted to look as though it is vaulted, and gorgeous side alters, traced with gold and sculpture. These working churches were open and available to parishioner and traveler alike!
We next fell into the Chiado neighborhood, and visited Café A Brasiliera for pastries and coffee. Gorgeous setting once filled by artist, author and poet. Almost bohemian in feel. We ordered and enjoyed the quiet space… no one up too early in Lisbon you see except service employees. Outside is a bronze statue of Fernando Pessoa, the metal hand worn shiny by passersby that still shake his outstretched arm. Further, a statue of Chiado and nearby Camoes Square give the area a stately and open, artistic feel.
Our destination for the day was Belem, a 15 minute trolley ride out of the city and a hub for several attractions. Our commute to Belem went smoothly, and after being dropped off, we set out for the Jerónimos Monastery. At one point Lisbon and Portugal had real political and economic muscle. During the age of sail explorers brought riches from conquered lands and imported and exported goods around the globe. The Jeronimos Monastery was built during that era, and exudes the riches that became part of the country for both church and state.
The monastery is vast, and ornate. The architectural style, Manuelian. The site has become the burial place for kings, explorers and poets, and an integral part of Portuguese culture and identity. We toured throughout, and especially enjoyed an exhibit designed to reference visitors by using timelines that compare the monastery, Lisbon and the globe since the site’s beginnings in 1400’s. The tour ends at the magnificent church (presently undergoing refurbishment) where you can find the tomb of explorer Vasco da Gama. Really an excellent attraction that is a must visit.
A short distance away we found a quiet Museu Coleção Berardo, Lisbon’s Modern Art Museum. We try and catch a modern art space wherever we go, as it somehow catches the spirit of a community’s relationship to the new. We really enjoyed this one! Even found a Jackson Pollock for me and some Warhol for Janie. The collection reviews, by artistic movement, a broad cross section of works across the 20th Century. From Da Da to Cold war themes, Picasso, Dali, Miro… it was a great stroll! Fine change in pace from the Monastery as well.
In the park near Belém Tower we sat, enjoyed sandwiches that we had packed and the riverside view. In the distance we could see the line up for Belém Tower and we may have even wavered at one point. But after some sustenance, we tackled the attraction and sure enough got held in the line (small line but we waited for a bit). However, we did gain entry and explored the Tower. Janie went up, and snapped some excellent shots of the tower and river from above. I went down, and checked out the battery and below that, prisoner cells that would have been dark, wet and dreary.
Nearby rests the Discoveries Monument, or Padrão dos Descobrimentos, that commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death to Prince Henry the Navigator. It is impressive, as it stretches toward the Tagus and watches the river that gave Portugal past wealth and glory. The stone work and mosaics in the surrounding plaza are an interesting stop, and visitors look for home and remnants of Portuguese influence (marked by sailing vessels). Tour buses seemed to abound here!
We continued to our last Belém stop, the Coach Museum (covered by our Lisboa Card). Now this was a cool change of pace! An exhibit of royal, horse drawn carriages from Portugal and beyond. It was interesting to watch the transition from the oldest, and less adorned to the more recent and ornate statue laden versions. It even included a carriage with bullet holes that several members of the Royal Family were assassinated in 1908 (a strangely ominous precursor to events at the onset of WWI: Lisbon Regicide).
So… with all that under our belts, we began the commute back to Lisbon and went looking for treats. It was Superbok vs. Sagres (local beers). We also picked up more fruits and veggies / as well as sardines, cheese, and crackers. Had a great side lunch in our room. I was starting to fade, but Janie had designs on getting out to a Fado show and after locating the time, we scrambled back up the funicular and to the address to arrive just in time. The show was 15€ each, with a smaller crowd in an auditorium space. Nice introduction to the music, delivered by both male and female singers with the passion of the Irish Ballads I grew up with. Excellent musicians too. I loved the ringing sound of the Portuguese Guitar.
We ended the evening eating supper, as the locals do… late. On Rua Augusta we stopped and snuggled under a tented eatery (with heat lamps no less). Getting adventurous, we ordered Octopus Salad and Fish Cakes, along with several Sagres. Once again, we weren’t disappointed and very much enjoyed the food, drink and setting. It was a quiet stroll back, although we did catch a brief shower that made for some perfect lighting and pictures in Rossio Square. Good night!