Ireland ’22 – Day 3

Starting to feel like we’re hitting the groove with Dublin, as early travel fatigue has waned and we’re getting around much more easily. The weather, to date, has been very much to our liking, being cooler than home with only the slightest of shower. Up and at it by 6:30 AM to Keogh’s Cafe, on the way to our first attraction, for a morning java! Great little visit with a solid cup of coffee and wifi, located just minutes from our stop.

A classic destination for tourists to Dublin is Trinity College to view The Book of Kells & Old Library Exhibition. We queued with timed entry tix and the line filled quickly behind us. Luckily, slightly ahead during the wait was a Tour Guide who was kind enough to share his expertise in regard to touring the space and the history involved. The venue opened on time and we rolled in with a very large crowd. The initial exhibit was a review of history regarding the book. Then a peek at the opened Book of Kells and a walk through the Old Library. Meh 🫤! At the risk of diminishing, we didn’t feel there was much visitor value in this attraction ($$). It’s obvious that the Book of Kells is an important work and the Long Room (Library) is an impressive viewing, but in short, this was for us an over-priced visit. A good one word description might be “disappointing”. Perhaps we share in the failure and should have been more prepared 😞! I do think, however, that you sell timed entry tix in order to avoid being overwhelmed with visitors and enhance the visitor experience (not jam the exhibit space to capacity and funnel hundreds past the merchandise).

Looking to shake it up, we left the “Itinerary” and pounced on a recommendation by the aforementioned gentleman we met in the Gravity Bar at the Guinness Storehouse! Off across the Liffey to the GPO Museum – Witness History Exhibit. This visit, for us, was most of what the Book of Kells wasn’t. It was an excellent learning opportunity keenly developed through interactive Videos/Artefacts/Audio Guide and plain speaking historians providing multiple perspectives. The focus takes the physical space, the General Post Office, and recounts its historical significance during the 1916 Easter Rebellion. The 15 minute video at Exhibit #7 encapsulates the visit, bringing together the foundational information that scaffolds the layers of complication for visitors. The pace was well suited and focused on content, not gift shop! Voilà… courage restored. 

Close by… an exhibit historically linked with Irish Independence in 1922, is The Custom House Visitor Centre. We took the self guided tour through this working Gov’t Office that examined the building’s architect and creation, symbols within design, relevance in regard to Irish trade (import and export), as well as its razing, occurring during the Irish War for Independence in 1921 by patriots such as Michael Collins. Its an absolutely gorgeous building laden with history, but also a lasting symbol of British Rule in Ireland.

After a quick snack, we moved on to something a bit more relaxing, and a visit to the National Gallery of Ireland. Since our earliest of vacations to London/Paris, galleries have played a role in our successful visits. Lots of well known artists, with works by Vermeer and Picasso, Rubens and Rembrandt, Monet and Renoir… bit of a highlight reel. Perhaps a change in focus from our morning Irish history lesson! No risk here friends…Free Entry 🤓. We did get lost twice, but I suggest it more from being more tired than actual building design. An afternoon saunter home on the busy streets of Dublin led us to a café just off Grafton St, the quaint St Patrick’s Park and well deserved rest at our accommodation!

Tip: We have consistently found that cities in Europe and North America are entirely walkable. Its a healthy, educational, and economic mode of getting around. Wear good shoes, acquaint yourself with your new neighbourhood & destinations, pack light, trust your instincts and please download / pick up a good map! Happy trails…

This evening’s festivities included a visit near Temple Bar, at Darkey Kelly’s Bar & Restaurant! Just 9 minutes walk and, once again, quite a space! As with previous pub visits, a chopped up series of rooms, each with its own bar! We got set up with a great little “mid-bar” table. Holy food… we ordered Irish Stew and Bangers & Mash. All of it scrumptious! I even salvaged a picture before we ate for Hinchey… 😉. More of a stage offering in regard to music here… Front and centre, sound system, and in the window as folks walk by (á la downtown Halifax)! Lots of interaction with crowd with musicians playing guitar and banjo! Good fun…

…Ireland ’22 – Day 4