Paris is an amazing city, with a style all its own! Food, clothing, music and drink (of quality) are celebrated. As with our last trip, we noted that professions in the service industry (whether it be as bartender, waiter, taxi driver) are taken seriously. They offer a quality experience… The greatest quality going to the highest bidder! We enjoyed our meals out, spent Euros on wine and snacks for home, and didn’t forgo any of those wonderful attractions. In fact, the kids, being under 18, got into most spaces we visited for free (spare the Eiffel Tower). But, if you’re headed to Paris looking for a bargain, that may be tough. Each Euro cost a buck and a half to buy at travel time. That being said… If you’re looking to experience a quality cultural adventure full of educational opportunity then Paris is for you. I’m going to run the numbers (as soon as all is in) to do a comparison to an average southern vacation. Although different in nature, I think it’s worth examining.
This opportunity for cultural learning was perhaps at no time more evident than our VizEat meal sharing experience. We found ourselves in a French apartment along the Seine enjoying a wonderfully prepared meal and vibrant conversation with Phillippe and Dzainis. Our hosts were authentic, real Parisians living in the Marais asking insightful questions about us, our children and our take on life. They shared openly, as we did, and the 4 hours spent seemed to fly by. We learned more about life in Paris in that one stop than we had our whole first visit in 2008. So glad Janie added this little nugget and that we incorporated it in the itinerary.
However, Paris is also somewhat wounded, its citizens having been one of the most recent to be weighted by a terrorist attack. Security at all points, including large and small attractions, schools, gov’t buildings, etc, where heavily guarded military in full dress and machine guns were the norm. We decided to visit the Bataclan for this reason. It’s important to understand the tensions hosted in places you visit. A lot of why’s and why nots can be answered.
Having a home base with a solid repertoire of amenities proved perfect for us. We could prepare a meal, wash up some clothes, stay connected to the Internet the entire trip and really relax when we got a second. This was new to us as we generally opt for a hotel solution for accommodation. However, Janie and I (and even the kids) spent almost a week selecting a rental with VRBO, first isolating sites with accommodations for four, then exploring the area for proximity to attractions and transportation links. Finally, we contacted owners with any others questions, and making sure to request a total price!
We were super happy with our location. Situated on Rue Dauphine, just 5 minutes or so from St Michel (Another couple of minutes to the Louvre and Notre Dame) put everything we needed within a short walk. Further, main transportation hubs, like RER B & C train lines and several Metro stops, were also within a couple of minutes. Our bonus was Rue be Buci… A market, entertainment (re: Street Musicians), and bar/cafe pedestrian street that we frequented daily. And oh my… That beautiful boulangerie! Initially a bit nervous about this non-traditional type of rental (re: damage deposits, up front fees, etc), we had success with VRBO and drew a very responsive agent and a homey little apartment. The only drawback we noted, in fact, is we almost always have had a “street view” from upper windows. It really wasn’t part of this trip at all… But it wasn’t a surprise, as we knew that leaving. Everything as advertised!
I can’t emphasize how much we walked this trip… Even on days when we used the Metro consistently, we pounded out the steps. We enjoyed that, although I suspect that Paris wouldn’t seem all that friendly to anyone with mobility issues. Good shoes are a must! I swear that we put on kms during attraction visits… Especially the Louvre and Versailles! Paris is very walkable, and we took the opportunity to explore neighbourhoods throughout the core of the city. There are a lot of tourists on the move here, and it seems at all times. People with maps unfolded, staring at Metro signs, lined up for attractions, filling the markets and cafes… It’s big business. I think much effort is extolled in keeping folks safe, as we at no time felt like we were in a compromising situation.
You have to plan ahead for the big attractions in Paris. Waltzing up to the Eiffel Tower, Louvre or Versailles without advance tickets or some entry knowledge could cost hours in travel time. Even with all the prep you can muster from abroad, you can find yourself at the mercy of work actions / assemblies, like we faced at the Louvre. We listened uncomfortably to a Dad behind us in the queue at the Louvre when delays were posted. Growling, pacing, posturing… It was some good old North American rudeness. Of course, his kids responded in turn! We try to be ready for delays, and will often have a backup plan should things go awry… Cooler heads prevail.
I thought it pertinent to make some notes on travelling with the kids. Although we weren’t entirely democratic, we did plan differently for this trip knowing they were going to accompany us (at almost every moment). I would suggest we ate a bit differently than we would’ve. For example, we would have probably been more adventurous in our selection of eating establishments. We tempered that with enjoying spaces with more predictable / broader menus so there would be something for everyone (ie. Our trip to Hard Rock in Paris) and visits to the local grocery store. The kids were quite cooperative as well… Taking in what sometimes must have been a burdensome level of history / art to get at things like the Eiffel Tower and Ferris Wheel at Concorde. Loved seeing them respond and try to use their French. In the end, I don’t think we would’ve done it any other way… Such a great experience for us to share. We have been fortunate… And know that.
PS – As a post script to this text, I wanted to add my findings in regards to costing for this excursion, especially in comparison to the southern all-inclusive. Looking at sheer numbers, our 2016 trip to Paris cost less per person than our last vacation south to the Dominican (resort in Punta Cana). The amount was not significant, but comparable. This looks at the entire expense, including all items related to transportation, accommodation, attraction and meals. This does not include any adjustment for the drop in rate of the CAN$ against the US$ from 2014 – 2016 levels.
It should be made absolutely clear that the level of work involved in trip preparation here is substantially different. Countless hours of planning occurred in itinerary development, research and logistics for the Paris trip which were non-existent in choosing a sun-destination. I might suggest, however, that I found the rewards are just as different. If one is looking for rest and relaxation, the European City excursion we built is not for you. We were in fact looking for cultural discourse, educational/learning opportunities, and global tourism attractions. It took a consistent effort prior to departure, and continued on the ground. It felt very good when the plan came together, but I was equally discouraged when I blew it (i.e. When we got lost finding the train back from Versailles). I do prefer this customized/personalized style of travel… as I see and do exactly what I want. The trade off is work!