The day began with a peek at the weather… Wind chill logged by Environment Canada at -38 Celsius. So, when we departed for breakfast at Cochon Dingue the scramble was on to get as much warm clothing on our backs as possible. We were glad we had prepared, as the walk through the morning wind cut ones breath. Well worth the trek though, as breakfast was just perfect, being served up eggs benedict, crepes, breakfast poutine all capped with an excellent bowl of Cafe au Lait. Awesome start to the day!
Prior to leaving Antigonish we had planned to do some snowshoeing at Plains of Abraham National Battlefield. However, with the weather as stinging as it was, we opted for visiting the museum. I think we may have been the first visitors. We hung our clothes up and spent an 1 1/2 hrs roaming the premises. As one might expect, there was much focus on the battle of the Plains of Abraham and, in particular, Wolfe and Montcalm. However, the video and artefacts looked at all of New France (there were several Nova Scotia mentions) and First Nations, Québécois and civilian participants were part of the conversation. All in, including a very informative introductory video presentation and some great hands on interactive pieces, the museum was a solid visit.
Adjacent to the Plains of Abraham is the Citadelle du Quebec. Up the steep hill we climbed to gain access through the main entry. Exhibits included examinations of Vimy Ridge and the 22e Regiment in the first and second World Wars. Holy sets of medals in the last room! Outside, the ramparts seemed well kept, but we didn’t take the guided outside tour of the grounds. However, Monica and I had a great chat with an enthusiastic tour guide about everything from the uniforms to the loading of muskets (soldiers loaded the breech with two fingers instead of their whole hand just in case it misfired 😉).
By the end of the citadel tour we were, as Monica says, “Getting peckish”. After a brief walkabout, we settled on Pub St-Alexandre on Rue St Jean. After scoring some bright window seats we watched the coming and going on this busy street while sampling some great craft beers and classic pub fare. I’ve never been much for the white linen table and love the relaxed atmosphere here. I’m guessing we held our seats for the best part of two hours before rallying back into our winter duds for the trek up the hill!
After a brief warming back in our room, we decided to get back on the move and headed for the Toboggan Ride on Dufferin Terrace, at the doorstep of the Chateau Frontenac. The area was very busy with holiday visitors. You actually buy the slide tickets at the tiny Au 1884 Cafe, then queue to grab a just used toboggan at the bottom of the run. I’m guessing the whole process took us a very chilly 1/2 hr but gotta say an “exhilarating” trip down. We could hear Janie yelling two sleds over (Janie’s Toboggan Video Link).
Then home to pick up our skates for a visit to Place d’Youville Park, a classy outdoor skating facility placed beautifully in downtown Quebec City. With facilities for sharpening, rentals, washrooms, indoor lace-up and even lockers it’s well equipped… They take their rinks seriously here! And what a great night for it, as we were shielded from the wind and experienced near perfect ice conditions. All for free!
Our last stop for the evening, after an 18,000 step day, Pizzéria d’Youville. As Peter says, we “nommed” on goodies including pizza and spaghetti. Both Janie and I enjoyed some French Onion soup which most definitely helped to warm the soul on this very cold night. God help anyone without shelter on this evening!