Much deserved sleep in! We cancelled mass first thing (I had planned to see one of Madrid’s wonderful Catholic Churches) to catch up on some jet leg! Getting back on track with time change ruled the morning. We slept well and hit the streets shortly after 8:00 AM. The day would be one of art, sightseeing and Madrid’s “foodie” highlights.
We were so happy with our choice of lodging. Superb location! The only drawback that I could find with Hotel Europa was an absence of the buffet breakfast that we usually build into our bookings. Regardless, we found plenty of options. Saturday morning was Cafe Leche and Churros (a bit like a doughnut and pretty yummy dipped in the coffee). Foregoing the subway, we walked from Puerta del Sol to Paseo del Prado area but arrived early for the Art Gallery opening. Although we made great use of public transport, Madrid is entirely walkable. Having a few extra minutes, we stopped at Atocha Train Station to scope out Bag Storage options and seek ticket info for our eventual side trip to Toledo.
The first visit of the day found us at Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía… Madrid’s leading gallery for Modern Art. It is home to one of Pablo Picasso’s most famous pieces of art… Guernica. We had a great viewing (we looped back after a large tour group arrived) with the space being very open and English information on the paintings history available. The gallery is a Monastery turned art exhibit and interesting architecturally in its own right. Picasso, Dali, Juan Gris, Tanguy, Braque… Nicely displayed collection with lots of room to get around. It was a great introduction to Madrid’s bounty of art! Tip… We purchased a Paseo del Arts pass online. At our first museum we converted the printed paper to a ticket good for the three main Art Galleries in Madrid. Got us past each of the next two ticket lineups and direct access inside… With maybe a small savings in cost!
Getting hungry, we stopped at Museo del Jamon for coffee, sandwich and fresh orange juice. Waiters were fast and no nonsense… inexpensive as well. Great stop just when we needed a boost. Museo del Jamon is actually a chain of businesses with locations throughout Madrid. They are lovingly decorated with hams of all sort hanging throughout the restaurant, and patrons can either sit or belly up to the counter to enjoy the popular ham delicacy and a favorite drink!
Then a short walk up the street to our next Museum of the day… Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. This gallery supports an entirely warm selection of artists; from Monet to Degas, Renoir to Rubens, Cezanne to van Gogh. Wonderful collection! Also loved the space and the colors… just so inviting. Of the three “big” art galleries on the Prado, this seemed to be our favorite, both in content and delivery. Not as big and scary as the Prado, not as stark as the Reina Sofia. Well worth the visit and we would highly recommend.
Leaving the Thyssen-Bornemisza, we set out for Cibeles Fountain/Square and Madrid’s ornate City Hall. Here we happened upon a Saturday demonstration. In my estimation, probably upwards of 50,000 that took to the street. It was all very orderly, as a stage was set up at Puerta de Alcalá (Alcalá Gate) with musicians playing / speeches being delivered to the closed section of boulevard. We noted, from very early on, that the Spanish seemed passionate about things political, and had no hesitation in voicing opinions or exercising their right to express freely. After some research to translate the message plastered on balloons, flags, and t-shirts, we learned that they were actually protesting in an effort to repeal abortion access. Although this protest seemed like a media slick affair that had intended to present a somewhat family friendly tone- we noted two unscripted participants on the fringe totting a “Feminazis” sign! Time to move on to other sites.
After that bit of excitement, we walked back towards city center by way of Gran Via, the city’s glitzy thoroughfare that is plastered with brand name shopping, large hotels and movie/Broadway style theater houses. Some eye popping architecture too, including Madrid’s Metropolis Building and other “edificio”! It was busy but we enjoyed the stroll on an altogether handsome afternoon.
However, the bell was striking for us, and time change and jet leg were catching up. We headed home to Hotel Europa, after a short stop for necessities, to do as the locals and try a siesta! The rest hit the spot and by early evening we headed into the streets south of the plaza in search of Madrid’s famous tapas bars. By way of introduction, tapas are the wide variety of appetizers, or snacks (may be cold such as meats, bread, olives and cheese or hot such as cooked seafood, meats, etc) sold in small portions in many Spanish restaurants/bars. In some bars, tapas have evolved into a specific cuisine.
This was fun! We don’t consider ourselves “foodies”, but wanted to check this scene out. After a neighborhood stroll we kicked the tires at Taberna la Alhambra, basically minutes from home and looking not too busy. We were quickly served beers (in small glasses) and asked the waiter (who replied in excellent English) how most people order/enjoy eating tapas. He suggested people move from bar to bar ordering many different tapas plates (smaller portions) that combine to make a full meal. With that in mind, we decided on a Pork tenderloin tapas, served on toasted bread with a mustard sauce. Excellent grub!
Then it was several doors down to Casa Toni. We’d seen this bar on a Rick Steves video of Madrid, and squeezed our way to a very busy counter. Once again two cerveza, and this time we shared Gazpacho (a cold garlic laden vegetable soup) and Potatoes Brava (the brava being a hot sauce added to cover the spuds). Service and food were excellent, and the goings on a feast for the eyes. Loved the space and could have sat and watched forever.
Next door was La Oreja de Jaime where we had several more drinks, once again in tiny glasses. I looked that up and several reasons for it were presented. Suggestions included (#1) the end of the beer was more likely to be cold, (#2) it allows patrons to move quickly from bar to bar, and (#3) more affordable for customers. It was entirely drinkable, and helped us with the “Pigs ears” we ordered at this tapas bar. Although quite oily, the oreja were also crunchy and we finished the plate without too much concern.
All in all… a great evening. Never really figured out the cost on it all, but would suggest eating became an attraction and la cuenta (the bill) never seemed too out of range! Further, to a fault the folks that served us and kept the cerveza flowing were friendly and very sociable, even in these busy establishments. I’m guessing we were among the early patrons, and that these bars and restaurants served food well past midnight. If you visit Madrid, getting out and sharing a meal and drink seems very much part of the culture, for all ages!