Check-Out at the Maldron… solid accommodation with the essentials we needed (location/Wifi/quiet/$) booked via Expedia. With our decision to travel just days before departure, other options, such as VRBO/AirB&B, weren’t producing any realistic results. Beautiful morning walk, with the sunrise in our eyes glistening on the freshly cleaned cobblestone of the city centre. We laid by for a coffee at La Centre-Ville Cafe Patisserie and enjoyed the warmth of drinks and a sun drenched street-side table, as commuters made their way to work.
This morning it was off to Connolly Station and our first of several Irish Rail connections as we expand our trip from Dublin to the north and the City of Belfast, UK. A little about the train… punctual, clean, connected (wifi), efficient and scenic. A far cry from trying to drive ourselves. Ticketing was easy and boarding smooth! From our windows, the train followed a coastal route along the Irish Sea, with glimpses of beaches & fishing boats, farms & pasture, rolling hills, several community stops and light industry. Dropped a map here as a visual for you!
So… Belfast. You know that feeling when you have a picture in your head but what your seeing doesn’t relate? Time to chuck assumptions and bias… my memories are of “grainy” TV images of fighting in streets, bombing sites and barbwire shrouded guard towers. As we work our way through this it will be important to pay close attention to what we see, and what we don’t see. As with most things, we’ll need to work hard to know whether things are as they appear.
We had a first class arrival walking from the train station to our accommodations (after a short Banking stop). It was modern but classical, with well kept commercial areas, and lots to see and do! At noon gun we dropped our bags at The Flint and check-in was efficient. We had a great sandwich/coffee combo at the Ravenous Gourmet Sandwich Shop to keep us from getting “hangry”, then quickly off to the Ulster Museum for our first attraction in Belfast.
Our habit is to start at the top and work your way down… can’t explain why, but that’s what we do! So we began with “Art” on the top floor, especially liking the Sir John Lavery works and the exhibit Now You See Me Moria, a poster project raising awareness about the EU humanitarian crisis. Working our way down, we slowed again in the history exhibit, focusing on the 1900-today offerings in the museum. It has to be noted that the historical timelines presented in Dublin & that in Belfast were notably different (not in chronology, but in detail). The gallery reflects an historical timeline that provides perspective on Northern Irish History through this period… with the bulk of that concerned with the “Troubles”. Somehow, the museum picks away at pieces of the story… but never really tells it! I’m getting more confused… and hoping that is a good thing (or at least that’s what I tell my students at school).
Perhaps the most interesting part of the visit, however, was with one of the staff upon entry. We got the opportunity to ask some questions in regard to our time in Belfast. As the conversation progressed, we found ourselves becoming more familiar and he quickly checked some of my assumptions. Importantly, he rather implied that all is not as it seems in Northern Ireland. Although some of the violence has subsided, the hatred remains and simmers despite having very little international or national coverage. Passions still run very deep.
Then the tumble home. Oh… BTW our digs are amazing! Wonderful mid city location near Belfast City Hall. Sweet connections via bus, train or on foot 🥾. The room boasts all the amenities, including a kitchenette (makin’ our own coffee Friday) and wifi with muscle. Free laundry area as well! Around the corner we scored at the Tesco (convenience/grocery store) and filled the larder, so we set ourselves up for the remainder of our Belfast stay.
Tip: If an opportunity knocks, go for it! Case in point (details below); On Thursday we switched up our itinerary and went to a Football Match in Belfast. We love sports, but are definitely not “footie” fans. We attended to see, learn and realize a new experience. Linfield FC has a complicated, controversial past (see Article: Kennedy, Extra.ie, 2017). Sometimes though, if you want to understand, “Ya gotta go for it”!
We were torn in regard to the evening. On the train we learned of an European League football qualifying match between Linfield FC & RFS Latvia. We decided to change itinerary. Janie sorted tix, I tackled the commuting plan. By quarter of eight we were seated and the match was underway. Home Team held the time of possession first half with multiple tries that were not capitalized on. Play in the second half provided no resolution and nil – nil after regulation. To follow… 1 – 1 after overtime play… with Linfield losing on goals in the penalty shootout. Linfield absolutely blew it (See Link)! Extreme people watching / listening here… and the majority of that can not be repeated! Saving grace was we had no clue what was being spoken in the Queen’s English!
However… this is a great spot for a shout out to the two lads that kept us company rail-side as we quietly awaited our train back to the city, none of us really knowing if/when the next stop was to occur. Being late teens, we had a lovely chat about high school, Northern Ireland, football culture and Canada. Gentlemen indeed! Then commute home, internet check-in, snack, bed… Good night Sue Ellen!
Enjoying hanging out with you two… in a virtual way. Looks like you’re hitting some great spots and I like that you are open and honest about your rating of spots. On trips like this, not all of our choices of spots to visit live up to our expectations. And boy… did that food with the ‘calorie free’ gravy look good. Just wondering if you’re required to wear masks on your train travels? Looking forward to hearing about Belfast as it seems to be a hit for most visitors I’ve talked to. Do you have plans for a ‘Black Cab’ tour?
The train travel here was amazing. Wifi, clean, efficient and at present “No Masks” required. We avoid cars at all cost while abroad 😳! Have a “Black Cab” tour booked for tomorrow morning… I think there are multiple companies, and with these folks I’m guessing any taxi might work! A very complex political / historical landscape here Mike. My degree in history hasn’t prepared me for the layers and intricacies. I’m at a spot where I’m convincing myself that being confused is a good thing as it means I’m trying to understand…
Train trip must have been awesome!!
Can’t wait to hear about your adventures in Belfast. When? where? are you meeting up with Monica and Evan?
Just finished our first attraction in Belfast. Learning so much… not through what we are seeing, but more so through the conversations we are having with people we are meeting. Going to see the kiddos on Sunday morning, maybe breakfast somewhere in Dublin before we both hop on trains! Hope all is good there.
It is very interesting to read about the history of Ireland but chatting with local people you likely are getting a deeper understanding of “the troubles”.
The football game sounded like an exciting bonus!
We did an important tour of the Shankill and Falls Rd areas this morning. The heart of the Troubles… So many layers in this conflict. Our guide, from Black Cab Tours, did a fantastic job of bringing this to life!
Great job on getting the football tickets. It has been high on my bucket list for so long… but our timing has been poor. Your review of the game sounded like a play by play pro… with all of the lingo. Great job. Getting lots of good tips from you folks for next year… hopefully.
Football is tricky… this match had a much smaller attendance than our previous game visits and as such the tix weren’t difficult to source. However, with football it’s the understanding of where you are and making sure safety is a top priority. One of those things you’d rather not be trying to “wing it”! Black Cab/Taxi tour is a must Mike! Lots of companies doing it and we lucked out with an authentic, knowledgeable guide! ⭐️ ⭐️⭐️ ⭐️⭐️