Balkans ’26 – Reflections

Coffee – Lumsden Trip Fuel

The reflections page is our chance to “wax poetic” on these trips… to talk about what we experienced and to break down portions of our planning and learning. We don’t mean to present any amazing “epiphanies“ in regard to the histories of these countries, nor any idealized travel solutions, but more present the impact the stories of these peoples had on us and examine our own ideas on travel. Things were definitely “new to us” in the Balkans, so let’s grab a coffee ☕️ and we’ll share some of our thoughts in regard to this adventurous March Break of travel!

Measure twice – Cut Once: Janie suggested this title and she was right on target 🎯! During the past couple of years, whether it be trips like Central Europe ’23 or Scandinavia ’25, our excursions have been more laden with heavy duty levels of travel while on the ground abroad. This Balkans trip becomes even more complex as both Bosnia & Herzegovina and Montenegro are included. These countries rest outside European Union and the Schengen group controls, meaning passing customs 🛃 for these states for access and departure. The key to any such travel is a higher level of planning. As an addendum, it should be noted that at no time did we feel, in any way, at risk during any portion of the trip… I’d further suggest most of the Balkan region today is safer than many parts of Western Europe.

iPhone Web Edits

We do not use a travel agent, and never have, so ultimately the pressure is on us to make sure the trip works as planned. We research and book all trip segments on our own, and things are often 90% solid / purchased prior to departure. Dealing with this type of trip complexity takes a keen level of organization. There were tight travel / transportation timelines and connections, six turnovers in terms of accommodation, multiple currencies (BAM, EURO, GBP), 10 border crossings that I can remember 🫨, and a blend of timed and walk-up attractions. Add language differences, weather, and technology to the mix as well… each bring a high level for interruption. Some things are just out of one’s control, but we do rough out “Plan B” options should issues arise, most often target known trouble spots (short layovers / sketchy tickets). Mistakes will definitely impact not only one, but multiple parts of the trip. We can’t emphasize enough the 7 p’s adage… Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance!!!

Dubrovnik AirBnB Space

Accommodations: We’ve mostly “glossed over” speaking in detail about our accommodations in the blog, but I think it’s worth spending a few lines here to focus on that topic a bit. It’s essential, as it can really make or break a trip. We began our travelling, many years ago, booking strictly hotel style experiences. We have definitely evolved to select from a broad range of lodging selected to fit our on the ground needs. Our philosophy, probably first noted during a stay in Madrid, is that accommodations can and, when practical, do serve multiple ends. Ultimately, location, amenities and rest are determining factors. Depending on the purpose, that accommodation can also become an attraction. I’ll roll through our lodging decisions for this trip and the logic behind what / why we picked as we did!

  • Alt Hotel Halifax Airport – Halifax: Pros – Excellent location & proximity, comfort & amenities, Airport Parking Package, lends options to safely avoid March weather / highway considerations, watching planes ✈️ land and take off. Cons – mostly cost related $$$
  • Hilton Garden Inn Terminal 2 & 3 (two stays) – London: Pros included – Perfect travel location when using Terminals 2 & 3, standard rooms with necessary amenities, Runway Bar. Cons – Distance from London Attractions, No Kitchen
  • The best view apartment at Baščaršija – Sarajevo: Pros – In the Heart of Old Town location (you could hear, see and smell everything), Comfort & Amenities 👍, Fantastic Balcony Views, Near Attractions, Option to prepare own food, Value Priced. Cons – 🤷‍♂️
  • Blue Suite Old town Center – Dubrovnik: Pros – Central location, gorgeous space, wonderful views, Option to prepare own food, Comfort & amenities 👍. Cons – Expense, less contact with “real” Dubrovnik, Non-Accessible (So many uneven stairs)
  • Hotel Dubrovnik – Zagreb: Pros – Location, location, location, standard amenities, Airport Transfer Service, Breakfast Incl, safe in city centre. Cons – No Kitchen
Sarajevo Rose – Shell Fragments

Remembering the Bosnian War 1991-95: A key motivating element in selecting the Balkans for this trip was to learn more about the war which ravaged parts of the region during the 1990’s. We wanted to experience first hand some of the places / spaces, and learn from those directly affected during this conflict. Like an onion, layers of politics, nationalism, militarization and religion all played pivotal roles in causation. This blog is no place for an hour history lecture, but below are our takeaways gathered through the conversations, museum exhibits, and remnants of an instance when humanity let go of the reins. (ps. Sarajevo Roses Photo – Memorials in Sarajevo made from concrete scar caused by a mortar shell’s explosion that was later filled with red resin. The rounds created a unique fragmentation pattern that looks almost floral in arrangement… there are some 200 in the city and mark a spot where at least 3 people had been killed.)

Siege of Sarajevo Exhibits

Sarajevo, to us, seemed to encapsulate the complexity of the war. A city gripped by siege for years, a people under fire when crossing the street, a land laid waste through indiscriminate shelling and targeting, often without food, water, power… the ideology of nationalism gone rogue and a deadly racial and religious persecution in no uncertain terms. The aggressors were eventually charged with committing purposeful genocide on these people in the Hague. This all happened during our time… not some ancient battlefield or hordes on horseback.

UN Exhibit – Genocide Museum

It was the sharing of personal accounts, whether it be guide, video or museum exhibit, that bring the weight of how a people can be so full of hatred as to wish to exterminate another. A hostility so tightly woven through the political machinations of government, that military force was used against civilian populations. The world watched, in horror, while UN Forces were seemingly unable to deliberatively intervene on their behalf. Not until mass murder and full scale extermination were well underway were the Dayton Accord and ceasefires imposed. A forced peace, so many years, days, and lives late.

Hillside Cemetery – Mostar

Despite all this, life resumes. Beyond the trauma, the still missing sons and daughters, the lines of white stones with dates in the 1990’s that adorn Bosnian hillsides, the melancholy of loss and grief… there is resilience. A people that have moved ahead, work hard, remain open to visitors and are telling their own story. It is important to remember, lest one forget the cost. Generations have passed in the mere 30 years of the official end to hostility, and one can sense this region’s affiliation and attention to the present day Ukraine, Gaza, and Iran war actions. They know the signs, recognize the sacrifice… they do remember. ❤️‍🩹

Grilled Meat Platter

Fun with Food: We didn’t roll into the Balkans with a “wing it” food plan like we’ve done at many other destinations. For each of the major stops we had built in Eateries / Restaurants that presented foods we had seen during research (either by web, YouTube, or word of mouth) that would work for us! Of course, we incorporated local “delicacies and delectables”. Some were known, others we stumbled into. Dropping our top nods here as we ruminate on things we sought out that were trip reflection memorable!

  • Chevapi: This tasty treat was, for me, the Balkan equivalent of the Halifax donair! Spicy beef, with raw onions, shrouded in zobbled pita.
  • Bosnian Coffee: A ritual with full bodied flavour that’s to be savoured. And oh… the “lokum” candy snap that jumps from the mixing of bitter and sweet!
  • Burek: Enjoyed in both meat and cheese forms. We sampled, in all major cities, this breakfast / lunch / dinner pastry on multiple occasions. A hearty, filling and naughty treat!
  • Meats & Cheese: An “in between” for us… not quite a meal, but more than a snack. Less a particular food, but more a “way of eating”. To add, we found no meat, cheese or bread that was off putting. Addictive bread offerings…
  • The Pivo: We sampled multiple local breweries / craft beer 🍻 samplings from the Balkans. Didn’t find one that wasn’t drinkable, and in fact most were down right fantastic!
  • Prosciutto: Consistently, we found prosciutto used in sandwiches, meals, baked goods and charcuterie. We’ve eaten this ham in Europe before, even in Italy and Spain who are most famous for this product. It rivalled those efforts!
  • Strukli: Janie’s description of this in the blog was perfect. Simple yet complex, sweet or savoury, and smooth, comforting and delicious. This is one we’ll be trying at home!
  • Ajvar: We found this condiment nestled in a meat platter, commonly eaten with Chevapi or grilled meats for dipping. A sweet, smoky and savoury roast vegetable (peppers & eggplant) spread. A new taste for us… “Balkan Caviar”!
Team MacNeil-Lumsden

So there you have it… Balkans ‘26 in the books! As much of a whirlwind as this one was, I’m not sure what I’d change except adding more! Loved the awesome blog commenting, feedback and thoughtful questions. We are slowly finding there is a silent majority, double the number of commenters, that quietly follow along to only reach-out later. Regardless, we’ve been privileged to have had you come along with us. Perhaps a tidbit here or there that you can use when travelling both near and far. In the end, we believe the importance in travel being a shared experience. Travel softens edges, hurdles barriers and moves mountains in the noble effort to learn about others. We try and bring a piece of this home from every trip. As I end a lot of blogs, we remain thankful and understand the privilege of being able to do these trips. It’s with this gratitude and gratefulness that we hope to be able to continue… until next time! ❤️

… Balkans ’26 – Gallery

2 thoughts on “Balkans ’26 – Reflections”

  1. Wow! Way to wrap this one up.
    It is clear how much preparation goes into all your trips, from attractions to accommodation, travel days, and eats along the way. I can say that the blog has been a great resource for my own trips. It’s so helpful to look back on what worked and what didn’t and see all your recommendations and tips. You do such a great job of capturing all that you two come across on your travels- and how lucky are we to be able to follow along! Can’t wait to see where you go next!

    1. Thanks for the props Monica… I remember when you and Evan did Europe! We were so envious… hostels, money management, and that Work Away program was so out of the box. You folks were no slouches yourselves!!! Super way to really know how the locals live. I’m no Rick Steves (your Mom says “thankfully”), but I do love his organizational intentions and his passion to learn, as well as share, with others. I’m guessing you folks will have the itch again soon enough. Love your road trips! Thanks again for following along, and that you’re on the road yourselves someday soon! ❤️

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