Good bye to Hotel Europa, as we packed up bags and checked out first thing … Great stay! Then an early subway ride to the train station where we stowed our bags for the day. Pretty high tech storage option with a ticket that had to be kept in order to regain access. Then we grabbed a light breakfast and navigated security for the 1/2 hr trip on high speed train to Toledo. All left on time and the ride out happened in a flash!
Upon arrival we walked from the train station to an old stone bridge, Puente de Alcántara, that crosses the Teju River and allows access to the walled city of Toledo. Of note, Toledo is hilly and the streets are cobble stone so good footwear is a must! They do have a series of escalators that make the trek uphill easier (of course we didn’t see these until departure which was downhill). We headed directly for the main square, Plaza de Zocodover and sat with a coffee and map to plan the day. We decided to start at the Military Museum/Alcazar, just around the corner and move across the city.
Newly refurbished, The Military Museum/Alcazar focused on 16th-19th century Spain and was a perfect introduction to Toledo. The almost empty space (a school group let us pass ahead of them at entry) hosts a wealth of history with the emphasis on Spain’s military (of note, we heard machine guns and artillery during the day which we supposed came from the nearby Army training facility). The museum itself is vast, with lots to see and read (English language on interpretive signage) and we delved into the realm of Spanish history. The only piece we wanted more of was recent in nature, as we desired to know more on Spain’s interaction in the World Wars and any stories surrounding the Spanish Civil War. Great time spent though, with more to see than is possible in one visit.
So Holy Toledo, this place has terrain! Reminded me of the alleyways of Venice, only instead of canals it was hilly, cobble streets. A secret around every corner. Our second stop was Primada Cathedral, Toledo’s famous Cathedral. You purchase tickets across the street, then secure audio guides which chart a course for visitors through the cathedral and cloisters. One impressive building… with an alter and artwork like I’ve never seen! It is a massive space, with too many extras to list in it’s high Gothic style. We focused on the core of the space, with a stunning golden alter and a beautiful choir which rests at the centre. The audio guide helped point things out amidst what was really too much to see. Further, El Transparente is well worth the look, as sunlight casts down past sculptured angels and heavenly paintings. Although a few euros to enter, it is the pinnacle of how religion, architecture and art intersect in this city.
There are swords available in shops everywhere in Toledo. Looked this up afterwards. Toledo crafts people have a long history of sword-making, based in the very high quality alloys produced in the region. We saw them for sale in store windows, but noted that it may cause issues passing security at Heathrow! Felt like Lord of the Rings on some streets!
Next stop was the Church of St. Tome, home to El Greco’s famous painting, “The Burial of the Count of Orgaz“. This was the home parish of El Greco, and tourists line up to view the artwork. We actually sat in the church while a large tour group, positioned directly in front of the work, made their way past the painting. Quick stop, but another glimpse at El Greco, and his unique artistic style.
Further across the city we visited two Synagogues in the Jewish Quarter of the city. These are more than unique, as they exhibit symbols of Judaism represented and wound within Mudeajar architecture. We toured both the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca and El Transito Synagogue and Sephardic Museum. There is a reality here worth considering, as at one time you can see that Toledo hosted Jew, Muslim and Christian side by side, even having these religions work together. Progressive beyond today in many ways!
Getting somewhat foot weary, we wandered back in a zigzag pattern through the city hoping to appear back in Toledo’s Zocodover Square. I had read that trying marzipan from the city is a must. So, we found a store and purchased! Marzipan is a confection consisting primarily of sugar or honey and almond meal, most often made into sweets. We sampled and enjoyed! A tasty treat after exploring in the alley-like streets of the ancient city.
We decided on a light lunch and shared some calamari & potatoes brava at a small eatery. Great snack, with the seafood prepared and presented nicely. Then, being St Paddy’s Day, we fumbled upon O’Brien’s, the only Irish Pub within the walled city, and stopped for a refreshing pint. Yummy, with the bonus of an interesting conversation with the bartender who hailed from Puerto Rico.
Satisfied with our visit, we walked back to the stylish Toledo Train Station, with its Moorish design and very little seating, to catch our train back to Atocha. Good run, and after a short panic (we thought we lost the baggage ticket – The lesson learned: we will in the future take a quick photo of tickets as a backup) we gathered our stored bags and took the subway in Madrid to Chamartin Station to prepare for our overnight train to Lisbon. We had some supper, picked up snacks and settled in to await departure.
As with our adventures in Germany, we welcomed the tiny sink and thinly bunked roomette that characterize traveling overnight by train in Europe. We did, however, manage a decent sleep (other than a 2:00 AM wake up call from customs as we passed into Portugal). Spain was a great choice, and Madrid a fine city to visit!