Parks Canada – Cape Breton Highlands Loop
Day 1 – Antigonish – Port Morien
It was a 9:15 AM departure from Antigonish after a great visit with Mom and Dad. With everything packed we headed for Cape Breton with minimal traffic and sunny skies. We decided on the Highway 105 route through to Baddeck, making only one stop at the Big Spruce Brewing Company in Nyanza. That company has set up a lively compound with everything from craft beer to yoga going on! Janie grabbed a selection of beers to sample later on.
At approximately 11:30 AM we arrived at Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. Although a bit worn inside, the grounds looked in fine form and the AGBell story really never grows old! Janie and I were both reminded of the breadth of his work, from the telegraph to genetics, inventions for the hearing impaired to aviation… it seemed to have no bounds! Loved some of the video footage and the impact he had on both the surrounding community and indeed world wide. Great story that is analytical and inspirational.
The next stop on our list (minus gas outside North Sydney) was the trek to Glace Bay and the Marconi Museum National Historic Site. Although underwhelming in regards to looks, the location and views tell the story. In essence, Marconi was looking for land that would be conducive (both in location and cost) to erecting towers that would capture wireless signals from Europe. It reminded me a lot of the Trans-Atlantic Cables that ran prior to wireless through my home town of Canso. It’s that intersection in history where technology and location cross. That being said… it’s a one room interpretive Centre and I’m thinking Parks Canada could throw a bone or two to add some meat to the visitor experience!
Onward… next stop was the Cape Breton Miners Museum. We’d heard from friends and relatives that the experience at this museum was excellent, and to make sure that you do the guided tour. So, after a quick snack and relax at the rear of the museum facing the Harbour, in we went. We were hustled quickly to a tour just about to head into “Ocean Deeps Colliery”.
Gotta say it was a very interesting trip. A retired miner was our guide and he took us through segments of the history of coal mining in the region and a tour below ground. Although made clean and safe for visiting tourists, with a little imagination one could quickly get a sense of what life might have been like scratching at a coal face. The dirt, wetness, and continuous physical demands from shoveling coal to being constantly bent over left a real flavor of discomfort. Our guide was awesome, with an excellent factual base married to that Cape Breton storytelling culture and sense of humor. The experience was well thought out and we’d recommend the visit to others.
Before making our way to check in at that evenings B&B in Port Morien we decided on supper at Colette’s Diner arriving to a busy restaurant at 6:00 PM. Janie and I sampled the seafood and worked through a couple of classic fish and chip dinners. We listen more than we used to in regards to conversations in the room… we enjoyed the ruminations of several patrons and caught an earful of Glace Bay dirt!
At roughly 7:00 PM we were greeted by Stan, the innkeeper at Port Morien Rectory B&B. Lovely late 1800’s building that put me in mind of my grandfather’s home in Canso built in the same era. We were soggy, being a bit road weary, so opted to check out our room and just unwind for a few minutes. We did take Stan up on a couple of his suggestions, visiting the wharf (which was busy with boats and fishermen preparing for last day of lobster season) and nearby sand bar (where Monica collected a few rocks for further consideration). Upon return we really were out of gas and hit the shower and bunks by 9:00 PM for a huge sleep!
Day 2 – Port Morien to Broad Cove Campground
Early to rise at the Port Morien Rectory B&B. Got another shower and dragged most of our goodies out to the vehicle prior to breakfast, and what a meal that was. It included eggs, toast, veggies, and yoghurt/Granola/fruit all carried with a fine cup of coffee! We chatted education, health care, travel and many points in between. Thanks to Stan and Carol for their hospitality, and of course Janie for pulling a great last minute accommodation booking with such fine folks! Well done!
At 9:30 AM we drove southwest to visit one of North America’s most impressive reconstructions, Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site. I’ve been to the Fortress of Louisbourg a handful of times and it really never grows old… I see something new each visit. Free to enter this year, it’s as difficult as walking in with the Discovery Pass, relating your Postal Code and getting on the bus. While on site we roamed the buildings/yards within the walled site freely chatting with guides, watching demonstrations (excellent musket demo) and even enjoying a coffee/some wireless. All in, we spent 2 1/2 hrs in the nooks and crannies of the fortress… The sights and smells are unforgettable.
Upon completion of our visit, we turned our attention to preparing for our run to Broad Cove Campground in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Firstly, a stop at Walmart outside of Sydney to restock the meats and veggies. We found everything required! Then onward to the Englishtown Ferry ($7.00 yikes – $1.00 a minute) and along the Cabot Trail. Gotta say it’s gorgeous country and wonderful viewing. The driving near Ingonish is tricky, as the road switches back and forth to make the rise over the hills surrounding the community. Must be one hell of an effort to get around in the winter!
So… Just outside Ingonish we entered Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the location of our evening accommodation, Broad Cove Campground. Early in the spring we had reserved a Parks Canada Otentik, amazing little semi permanent shelters that are offered across the nation in a limited form (if you want one book very early). The location of this Otentik was absolutely perfect, removed somewhat from neighbours and nestled into the wind and towards the nearby beach. Several Parks employees mentioned it was the best location in the campground (#185). The remainder of the evening saw us explore the area, cook up supper (Otentik comes equipped with a Weber BBQ/Charcoal Chimney), and settle around an evening campfire in the fire pit. All hands in their “Happy Place”!
Day 3 – Broad Cove Campground to Cheticamp Campground in Cape Breton Highlands National Park
Up and at very early for summer… caught a sunrise at 5:30 AM. Gorgeous view over Broad Cove Beach. Then full on breakfast with all the trimmings and to the beach where Janie and Monica had a blast playing in the “rip” that tugs on the ocean’s edge there. After showers in the campground facilities it was off to navigate our way around the Cabot Trail through mountain, valley and coastline. Big thumbs up in regards to our stay at Broad Cove… couldn’t have asked for anything more!
We had an excellent trip around the trail… there’s “lots” to see. First stop was at Neil’s Harbour. This remote seaside community seemed to have all the necessities and plenty going on. We drove out to the lighthouse and enjoyed the panoramic view! Along the way we also saw a fair bit of road construction… capital improvements going on to upgrade drainage, bridges and black top. The wider roads will enhance safety for drivers and cyclists (brave souls tackling those mountain passes) improving the travel for locals and tourists alike. Also, there is a continuation of focus on Look Offs for travelers to safely park roadside and enjoy the expansive vistas the trail affords. Its an exciting drive, but does command attention.
Our first planned stop of the day was at MacIntosh’s Brook Trail (2km return) to get out, stretch the legs and make our way into the park. The trail was an easy walk and culminates in a small waterfall (or at least its small mid-summer) that empties in a refreshing pool. Janie and Monica scaled the area looking for a good pic of the brook. I tucked into the shade and the cool mist coming off the splash of water at the waterfall’s bottom. Lot’s of folks using the trail as well… moving in both directions and utilizing picnic tables at the trail entry point.
Our second trip of the day was through Corney Brook Trail where we walked about two thirds of the trail along the brook that empties from the nearby range of the highlands (we walked about 4.5 km return). Another easy walk, but the heat of the midday sun shortened the extent of our hike. At about mid-trail we actually stopped and hunkered down in the shade of the brook and enjoyed a rest with feet in the river. This trail was very quiet… meeting only two other groups the entire trip that were enjoying the excellent conditions.
The coastal driving on the western side of the park is just as spectacular as the eastern portion. Late afternoon we left the trail and made our way through to Cheticamp for supplies for our last night of camping in the park, at Cheticamp Campground. Once again, we stayed in an Otentik and were quickly set up for the night with a quick flick of the sleeping bag and the opening of a bag of charcoal. We had a bountiful supper, this time creating our own “kabobs” of pork, veggies and shrimp. Further, we cuddled around an evening campfire and watched the “goings on” with some youngsters in our neighborhood. Kids on bikes, playing games and speaking French… excellent people watching (and listening). We shut down after some crazy eights and an evening snack to a warm Otentik (which kept us very dry during an evening shower). Good night!
Day 4 – Cheticamp Campground to Antigonish
All business after wake up… we scrounged some breakfast, packed up our gear from the Otentik, then hit the road for Antigonish (I was looking to get back to work by 11:00 AM). Cheticamp Campground proved a great stop and although busier than the Broad Cove site, it wasn’t without its charms. It was an eye catching drive home down Rt 19, taking in the scenic Margarees, pretty little village of Mabou, and the rugged coastline along the Judique / Creignish area. We sauntered along to very little traffic and reviewed our highlights from the “loops” we’d completed over the past two weeks. Chalk one up for the staycation… it was timely, economical, and very enjoyable!