Central Europe ‘23 – Day 4

This morning’s agenda involved our departure from Budapest and commute to Austria. It was a quick breakfast, check out from our “most excellent” digs at the Cortile, and making haste to track down our train connection to Vienna at Keleti station. In short, we have to say that Budapest did not disappoint! Incredibly scenic, with a variety of interesting attractions, and even quite affordable, Budapest was a great way to kick start our March Break.

We really have not done a lot of train travel, so it’s always an adventure for us. Add that to the German language on ÖBB tickets, lengthy line-ups, and sheer number of trains… it feels like chaos. There was a moment of panic and not knowing that got the heart beating. In the end, we finally found the sheet with our “sitzplatzreserviereung” (seat reservation), walked in an open train door, and found ourselves in the exact car / standing in front of our seats. 🫣

With that little piece of excitement behind us, it was some downtime scooting along at 120-140 kms/hr across Hungary. There are things I really like about trains… views of often unseen cityscapes and countrysides, comfortable seating / room to stretch or even walk, and the “punctuality” of it all! Further, we were treated with a little drama as the Polezei executed a removal of several passengers from our car at the Austrian Border (no tix / invalid passports maybe). We were also provided a little time to update our thoughts on Hungary;

• Weather – Very good! Although cool in the mornings, temps midday were well into the teens °C with overcast/sunny skies.
• Currency – No issues with Forint/HUF… we stuck to the credit card and honestly didn’t even touch a coin of it! We found eating to be very economical – also loved that tipping was included in price at several locations!
• Metro – Used the M1, M2, M3 lines and all ran as expected. No waits, well signed, and clean/organized! Employees check validation regularly… so best to make sure you’re following those rules 👍
• Connectivity – Phones have made their way to “essential” as far as travel goes. While I’m reliant on “wifi” for internet access, Janie is using an E-sim product called Airalo and having good success ($20 for trip)! I’m guessing we will both be using this service next time abroad, although we did “hotspot” her iPhone at points so I could get quick access!
• Language – English was most often included at attraction (especially audio guides / signage) and spoken by many here in the service industry… we sometimes refer to it as the language of “Currency”

Arrival in Vienna was near 11:20 AM, and our first tasks included subway tickets and a bag drop or potential check in at our city centre accommodation. So, off to purchase tix for the U1 line and commute to Stephensplatz. Well signed, excellent flow to U1, grabbed a couple of day passes… nice! And, as luck should have it, early check in at the Art Hotel Amadeus. Yay! Quick stop before we hit some attractions. Vienna is coming up roses!

Planning for Vienna on Tuesday included a smattering of attractions all within a short distance of the Art Hotel. Our longest walk took us about 15 minutes away to the Sisi Museum for our first visit of the day. The museum is part of the Hofburg complex of buildings, and we purchased a combined tickets for Sisi Museum / Imperial Apartments / Silver Collection (Tuesday)/ Schonbrunn Palace (Wednesday). In essence, the visit is three museums in one.

We easily gained access, picked up audio guides and entered the Imperial Silver Collection Exhibits. On display are silver / gold / porcelain food settings and cutlery… and on the audio guides the stories that surround them. Lots of “dirt” included in those discussions! The Sisi Museum is focused on the life, death and subsequent mythology of this Empress of Austria/Queen of Hungary from her marriage to Emperor Franz Joseph I on 24 April 1854 until her assassination in 1898. The Imperial Apartments showcase where and how the couple lived in Vienna as monarchs. Hapsburg history, Viennese opulence and life as a Royal are common threads throughout the Museum. It was about a two hour visit but we both enjoyed the familiarization with this once vast empire and those whom held power within its highest circles.

St Stephen’s Cathedral is located in the heart of Vienna, and visitors can access for free the back area of the church to view this hugely impressive building. It’s vast, but well worth stopping by to check out the ornate and vaulted interior. The smell of incense permeates the building and we watched visitors enter, pause, and sit and bless themselves upon arrival. Truly an important space for many who enter.

Slowly making our way back to the Art Hotel we decided to have a quick bite. We stopped at Cafe Korb, just a 2 minute walk from the Hotel. It has a “local” feel, and was filled with visitors that were obviously familiar with the staff. Our smartly dressed server quickly readied a Viennese Melange / Espresso for drinks. Further, we sampled dishes of Sausages (with mustard & Horseradish) as well as a Traditional Viennese Pot Soup (Ms Lumsden has a case of sniffles). Great altogether… relaxing to sit and watch the world go by on a cooler afternoon in Vienna.

So… we essentially ran out of steam at 3:30ish and crashed. A much needed rest after really some non-stop touring. Our first impressions. Vienna is beautiful… but also has a vibe that is leisurely, upscale and orderly. It seems the heart of the region and a hub for culture, the arts and government. It also feels, well, expensive! From horse drawn carriage to luxury cars and outlets, the economic engine here seems at full gallop!

Post 😴 we rallied for a fine evening walk to get “our bearings” in the city centre. Huge shopping districts and pedestrian streets channel folks by windows and into the many eateries at the core of Vienna. We looped through and came to rest at a Segafredo Zanetti am Graben garden (covered outdoor seating with heat lamps). A yummy snack of sandwiches and beer 🍻accompanied by superb people watching! 

The evening’s entertainment was just steps away from our door at St Peters Church, in the form of a Classic Ensemble Vienna Concert. Four musicians, a stunningly ornate church, and a glowingly appreciative crowd. I’m reminded that churches were designed for music and sound in mind. The room was singing out the tones of those instruments. One can’t ignore the universality of music, as it crossed constructs of age, language, and culture to unite a room for an hour. An evening we’ll spent.

Central Europe ‘23 – Day 5