Haynes B&B didn’t disappoint! I kind of like to fly solo in the mornings, and we do our own thing, so B&B’s only work okay. However, we were treated to an awesome shower, great room and darn fancy second “b” (breakfast)… thumbs up to our hosts, who had us moving about Greensboro by 7:30 AM. After parking downtown (near our morning attraction) we went walk about, stopping for fancy coffee at Awoo Coffee (great ratings / fun pictures). We enjoyed street side window seating (it may have been an old department store) and the coffee was killer!
Having some time before opening, we wandered Greensboro checking out landmarks, several of the city Centre Parks and the many statues, dedications and historic plaques that dot the city. Brick, with white trim, is an architectural theme, with some beautiful structures in city centre and along the railway tracks. I was smitten by the beautiful 1920’s Carolina Theatre, and the website has a wonderful timeline of the building once considered one of the finest theatres between Washington and Atlanta. Also of note… we caught a glimpse of a cardinal in LeBauer Park (but slow on the draw with camera).
We arrived just prior to 10:00 AM for a Signature Staff-Guided Tour of the International Civil Rights Centre & Museum. You may recognize Greensboro, especially if you’ve done any studying of the American Civil Rights movement. The Greensboro sit-in was a civil rights protest that started in 1960, when young African American students staged a sit-in at a segregated Woolworth’s lunch counter and refused to leave after being denied service. Although arrests and removals ensued, their actions made an immediate and lasting impact, forcing Woolworth’s and other establishments to change their segregationist policies.
Our Guide Darren, was a serious storyteller with a well-versed effective script in his head. The hour and half tour took us along many more exhibits then could be covered, but Darren highlighted stories of Emmett Till, the 1963 Birmingham Church bombing, and key players like Ella Baker. Whether standing in front of the original Woolworth’s lunch counter space, or seeing a two-sided Coke machine, there were many examples how ugly and pervasive the Jim Crow laws were. Each exhibit seemed to cast a heavy shadow among our group. Intentionally, the tour highlights themes to show how the fight for civil rights was achieved. Included were the importance of voting, education, information sharing, coordination and bravery. A powerful, thought provoking visit!
The road south to Columbia had many twists and turns. We missed an exit (me actually 😂), passed a pretty serious MV accident, and got a car wash through what I’d suggest was a serious Baptist downpour on I-77! All in though, we made good time and within 2.5 hrs we were parking in Columbia, SC.
Our first stop… the Railroad BBQ on our quest for BBQ joints (located about 1/2 km from our accommodation). We arrived just prior to things getting busy… we ordered up the L&C, with pulled pork, brisket, baked beans, and green beans! Interestingly, lots of Liverpool fans in the house as well. Also saw a Summer MacIntosh Canadian Gold Medal win. Oh yeah… the grub was spot on. There was a reason why this business was full… meat cooked perfectly and tasty sides. Wowsers!!!
So holy B&B… our stay on Saturday Night was at the Chesnut Cottage B&B. Unbeknownst, at least to me, was some serious Civil War lineage! Wartime home of Mary Boykin Chesnut and General James Chesnut, this significant Civil War-era dwelling is listed in the National Historic Registry. Many original features remain intact, and each of the rooms are decorated with beautiful period-appropriate historic furnishings. I actually recognized the name, Mary Chesnut, and connected it to the Ken Burns Civil War documentary we’d watched oodles of times. Her diary explores, in detail, how the Civil War affected ordinary people and political influencers alike, providing an insider look at the political and social life of the South during the Civil War. We promptly flumped into the king size bed in “The General Room”… too cool 👍!
The good fortune continued, with our hosts arranging a 5:15 shuttle to take us to the stadium and our evening attraction… a Premier Football League friendly between Manchester United FC and Liverpool FC. The shuttle avoided a knarly and costly parking situation. A steady rip of Carolina thunder had us concerned the match may get interrupted / postponed / cancelled… but we forged ahead. The trip in saved our butts, as it poured twice on the way. We got to the gates quickly, minus a hiccup in the bag policy which Ms L righted with a convenient stuff under shirt.
The match itself was super fun… and we were treated to a 3 nil win for our Liverpool lads. It was a chance to see some favourites, as well as some up and coming talent as the game moved into the second half. Got to see Salah, Bradley and we were very impressed by Kelleher’s play in goal. Some 77,000 in attendance at William-Brice Stadium… I’m not sure I’ve ever been in a crowd that huge! It was all very spectacular 🎉.
Pick up and commute home was expertly handled by our driver. So glad all we really had to do was sit and watch the rain which had begun after our departure. A quick snack and the “General’s” bed was mighty perfect by the time we hit the pillow. A large day indeed!
Just catching up on your first few days on the road. What a great time you seem to be having already. You two are well-oiled machines when it comes to planning and travel.
Loving the pictures…the food at the Railroad BBQ looked especially mouthwatering 🤤
Enjoy the rest of the way and the game ⚽️
Hey there Leah! Hope that you are getting some much deserved rest this summer… ❤️. We are definitely having a time of it… very much hoping the lightning this weekend evening ⛈️ abates before game time. We’ve had a couple of awesome meals… seeing some powerful historic sites, and meeting some really wonderful people. Isn’t that what travel is all about 👍… take care and thnx for following along. Ms L says “Hi”!!!
Finally caught up… excellent read!! The football game certainly didn’t disappoint… even the weather cooperated when necessary!
The museum tours will have lasting benefits for history buffs when they get back into the classroom !!!
The game worked out well… not necessarily because of our planning though. The B&B hosts really had our backs as far as transport! Fun game… Liverpool win was icing on the cake. As for history, I’m thinking our stay at Chesnut Cottage may have been the most amazing piece of history we’ve encountered. The home was frequented by Civil War Generals from the south and Jefferson Davis himself. Mary Chesnut’s Diary is a remarkable account of life within the upper echelons of southern society. We had no idea when we booked 😳! Love your comments Eileen, and thanks for following along. We start to make our way north via a different route today!
Wow. What a full day. Had to go back and read it a second time. I think there are going to be some fortunate students next year in Antigonish as they hear of some of the experiences you both can describe. We visited the National Center for Civil and Human Rights in Atlanta and they had an interactive lunch counter exhibit where you put on headphones, closed your eyes and tried to understand what these young men experienced. Not much was said for the first little bit after we walked away. And you folks did it again…. you managed to squeeze in an awesome sporting event to wrap up your day. Wow again.
Part of Janie’s IB History focuses on the American Civil Rights movement (interestingly a unit almost banned in 1/2 states) and the fire ignited in Greensboro was a must see. Janie wrote that part of the blog… she’s amassed a huge awareness of the “timeline” of events of the players during this period and how the story weaves together. Our particular tour ended with a call for “hope” and “action”… change is a difficult course for humans and seems to fall apart much more easily than it gets accomplished. It’s the “uncomfortable” nature of content that brings the quiet!